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Dear Glenn, I've got two plants in my yard growing up along my aviary which I can't find on the "Toxic Plants" or "Safe Plants" lists. Can you help? They are the Princess Flower (AKA Glory Bush) and Mandevilla. The aviary was just erected and, as soon as I put some cockatiels in it, the birds started eating the leaves of the Princess Flower right away. It didn't seem to bother them, but they haven't touched it since that day. I have 17 birds, all different kinds of adoptees, and I don't want to risk their health.

Thank you very much for the service you offer to the WPT.

Cindi Eppers

Answered by Glenn Reynolds:

Hello Cindi, Great question. This one took some research. Please keep in mind that various plants may or may not be toxic to different animal species; therefore, I don't know that there is any definitive answer to this.

The Princess Flower or Glory Bush is in the Family: Melastomataceae, Genus: Tibouchina, Species: urvilleana. I cannot find anything that suggests this family of plants is toxic. Unfortunately I can't find anything that states it's not toxic either. Everything I can find states "unknown", so I would be cautious. My feeling is if uncertain don't take the chance.

The Mandevilla is in the Family: Apocynaceae, Genus Mandevella, with many different species. Notice "cynaceae" in the family name suggesting cyanide. This entire family is listed as toxic to humans. Oleander is included in this family. Depending on species the toxins are found in anything from the root and milky sap to all parts of the plant. The milky sap is listed as a skin irritant. Toxins and reactions from some species and various parts of the plant are: Cathartic; causing vomiting, self limiting; Glycosides causing increased pulse and temperature, dilated pupils, sweating, cold extremities, mild diarrhea, and death; Cardiac Glycosides causing burning of the mouth, drowsiness, diarrhea, vomiting, heart failure, and death.

Obviously you want to remove the Mandevilla from your aviary area and as stated above I would be cautious of the Princess Flower unless you can find something stating that it is not toxic.

Glossary:
Cathartic - Medicine or substance causing emptying of the bowels

Glycosides:
Anthraquinone glycosides - Hydrolysis yields aglycones (A nonsugar compound that is produced from the reaction of a glycoside with water. Alcohols and phenols are aglycones.) which are purgatives causing vomiting and diarrhea
Cardiac glycosides - Steriods affectiong heart function
Saponin glycosides - Hydrolysis yields a saponin (soap like substance) which has a bitter taste and is irritating to mucous membranes and may destroy red blood cells

filed under: Health and Nutrition

The red front macaw is becoming more and more popular in captivity yet there is little information on them whether it be in books or the internet....I am aware a Hyacinth macaw has a different diet than other macaws but what about the red front??? Since they really have'nt been around as long as the Greenwing, Blue & Gold, etc etc does anyone really know if they require a different diet than the others???

I wish someone with years of experience with them would sit and share the information they have obtained throughout the years including diet, personality, etc etc...I have had Sara for little over 2 years now and she is just a joy...

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

In a pet bird setting, there really should not be any specific dietary requirements for the red fronted macaw, Ara rubrogenys. A base diet of a commercial formulated product, some degree of controlled seed intake, and fresh vegetables should serve as your foundation.

As you get to know your bird, there will be many behaviors that will be individually and possibly species-specific that you will come to know. Probably most importantly, sound husbandry, training and behaivoral guidance and some degree of preventative health management will be important to make sure to have in place.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

I have a 28yr old Red Lored Amazon, could be wild caught we don't know for sure. His weight fluctuates as much as 30-40g per year. Is this normal? He is currently coming off of being hormonal and molting although not heavily and his appetite is not as good as previous times of the year. I realize coming out of breeding season that his body is telling him not to eat as much, but the vet feels his ideal weight is 500g and he is currently at 470-485g depending on what he ate the day before.

I have read but don't remember where, that wild caught birds tend to be more on the lean side in captivity than their handfed counterparts, is this true? He has been at this weight before but I don't remember if it was after breeding season and during a molt. He was just at the vet 2 weeks ago for his yearly checkup and everything was fine, phosphorous was slightly low but everything else was in normal range. 30g grams just seems like a big weight shift to me and I'm concerned. He is acting normal and playing and preening as usual so maybe I'm worried for nothing. Just wondering if this is part of the normal cycle for amazons, my other two birds, nanday and lovebird do not shift weight like this during the year? Thanks so much.

Janna

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

Fluctuation of more than 5% of body weight is not typical. Most often, gains in weight will be related to increases in muscle mass (improved physical conditioning) or fat.

Realistically, your bird's optimal weight would be that weight where the bird has good and even pectoral muscle mass present, and no apparent subcutaneous fat present at the abdomen or lateral flank skin regions. If you were to dampen the feathers in this area with isopropyl alcohol, you can see the skin very clearly for evaluaton.

Breeding season and hormonal cyclicity for the most part in parrots is strongly influenced by the environment, most of which we have control over. Dietary caloric intake is a strong reproductive stimulus for many parrots - and I am a bit suspicious that the hormonal cyclicity in part is being influenced in your bird by total calories being consumed or made available per day.

Most of the Red Lored Amazons in our database that were not obese seemed to range from 390-450 grams or so, and most of the birds that were 500 grams or over had the clinical observation of fat present and a diagnosis to some degree of obesity noted. Although your individual bird may be larger than most, and may actually be just a big guy - I am a bit suspicious that he may be overweight.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

I am currently a biology student and have a great desire to gear my career toward parrot conservation and research. With this in mind, I was wondering what suggestions you had as far as getting experience in this particular field. Whether it be through interns or strictly volunteer positions, I really want to get my foot in the door as soon as possible and wanted to know what the best way to do this was. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Sandra

Answered by Jamie Gilardi:

Dear Sandra,

You’ve asked and excellent, if difficult, question. As you know, parrots live in parts of the world which are generally quite different from where you’re likely to be (I’m assuming USA based on your ‘foot in the door’ comment). So field work is likely to involve different climates, different cultures, and nearly always different languages.

Some people are really interested in a particular species or region or habitat type and that interest should probably be a guide for where to get started. Find out who is working in that area or on that species in the wild, looking as broadly as possible, then start communicating as much as you can. What you’re after is pulling together enough background such that you can plan and carry out a trip to the area which will open your eyes to the realities and opportunities awaiting you on the ground there.

So, if you’re interested in macaws in Central America for example, you might want to spend some time in the Yucatan and then also in Costa Rica. If you make contact with researchers in both places, ask if you can visit and possibly volunteer on their projects, then line up a trip itinerary which will work to spend time in each area/project of interest.

When you get there, you’ll likely get an immediate feel for whether the place, people, language, habitat, etc. are a good fit for you. Some people get into a rainforest for the first time and they find the humidity and darkness to be incredibly uncomfortable, others find it to be comforting, beautiful, and rich. Of course, lots of parrots live in dry forests, or not even forests at all, and you may find that such open areas are either boring or spectacularly beautiful … depends on you!

The same issues hold for the species in question, your fellow researchers, and the local cultures – you may click, you may not, and the only real way to know is to go see for yourself. You may find that the cockatoo in your bedroom which is endlessly fascinating, is incredibly hard to see in the wild. Maybe just when you finally do see one, it flies off over a huge canyon and disappears over a mountain on the horizon.

When you do find a place which you find comfortable and exciting, keep your mind open about study subjects and questions. It may be that you really love this one particular macaw, but in fact, the more common parakeets in the area are much more easy to observe, and they’re clearly up to some interesting things worth studying. It might not even be a parrot, or not even a bird you end up studying … at that point, especially if you’re doing graduate work, you should focus on what you find to be intellectually most stimulating, challenging, and tractable, such that you become a great researcher in the end.

One thing to bear in mind is that most people with active research projects can always use functional people who are willing to volunteer and to really help out. But they also don’t have time to baby sit and they don’t want to deal with people who are just figuring out that the rainforest is rainy and sometimes you get wet! If you approach them and you’re honest about your experience and what you have to offer the project, and you make it clear that you’re willing to work, you’ll likely find people are quite receptive.

Good luck!

Jamie

filed under: Conservation

I am perplexed and very worried for one of my 5 Yellow-headed amazons. Four are 26 years old, and one (female, Gitana) is now about 14 years old. A couple of winters ago Gitana started pulling her feathers frantically and demonstrating that she was experiencing intense itchiness with flicking feathers, twitching, and squirming. I brought her to my avian vet and had many tests done, with no diagnostic results. The vet prescribed antibiotics, fungals and Benedryl anyway in hopes of relieving her symptoms, which I gave for several months, with no improvement. Eventually she was featherless, except for her head, tail and wings. She was clearly in pain as she pulled, and cried out. Her skin was to the point of bloodiness in a few places from all of her over-preening.

When spring arrived, her problems diminished, feathers grew back, and she and I felt great relief. Eventually, I figured that even though my house is relatively humid (by dry winter heat in Minnesota standards) that she had been suffering from dry conditions and dry skin.

Last winter I bought a humidifier, and she did very minimal feather destruction. I kept the humidity at around 35 - 50%. I started paying attention to the dryness of my own sinuses and nose and if I noticed discomfort, I increased the house humidity.

Living conditions:
My amazons get a lot of fresh food, mostly organic. In summer, they get many just picked fresh veggies that I grow in my organic garden. Some protein... usually a small amount of lightly cooked egg with a lot of veggies mixed in, or a couple of nuts or a small touch of cheese. Rarely, they get a small taste of a chip (salt rinsed off) or a little taste of toast with peanut butter. Evenings, they get a couple of teaspoons of mixed seeds (including fresh refrigerated flax seeds), organic human grade, purchased from a co-op, plus each gets 5 Harrison's pellets. Then a small (one TBSP) piece of fruit. Filtered water, flying exercise everyday. Large stainless steel cages. In the summer, I try to get them outside at least once a week, and they get hose, full-drench baths. (In the winter they get spray bottle baths).

Gitana lives and shares a cage with a male YH, Jake, who has always been very kind to her. No signs of any problem with him. Though I formerly bred my small flock of YHs, I have not provided nest boxes since 1999. Gitana has a difficult early history, as she was bred in captivity and lived with a mentally and chemically challenged woman for the first four years of he life. She came to our flock after another female died. Gitana was too young to be involved during the years that I bred them, so she has never had chicks.

Summer in Minnesota has been very warm and humid this year. I very rarely run my central air though, preferring open windows and fans whenever possible. So I was very unpleasantly surprised to find Gitana extremely itchy again this week, and wildly picking at her feathers, belly, back and legs are bare. She is trying to get out of her skin... flicking, jerking, picking, looking very tired from the stress. She stresses and picks even when all of the others are fast asleep for the night. Cages get covered for night by dark colored sheets (old and very well washed with eco-friendly soap, line dried).

The only thing that I can recall that has changed in her diet is that I ran out of flax a couple of weeks ago, and did not buy more until yesterday. I also bought hemp oil and have put a small drop on each of their five pellets. This is just the second day, so I still have hope that these essential fatty acids will help, though so far, she is not improving and I am so worried and feel so bad for her because of her extreme discomfort. I hope that you can offer some very quick ideas and help this lovely bird who is suffering so.

If it's an allergy, I just don't know what to think. Much of the seasonal food she's been getting now... organic plums, grapes, tomatoes, beans... garden stuff, she was probably not getting when this occurred last time, in winter. Other foods are not new. This is an acute reaction... she was pretty happy one day and frantic the next. I think that I will withhold peanuts, because they MAY have varying levels of aflatoxin, though I buy nuts from the Wedge Co-op, which is probably the best source. I wish that I were one of those really organized (OCD!) record keeping types and knew exactly what she had eaten for the last few years, but I am not.

I am giving her a lot of baths, but with no feathers, she shivers so easily, so I have her and Jake in a small cage outside today and yesterday because the air is on inside when we're in the mid nineties or above. The outside temp is 93 today, well within their normal habitat range.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated! Marie

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

Your question and dilemma is not an uncommon one, and challenging to help you easily with. Most importantly, I would really strongly suggest that your bird needs to be evaluated by an experienced and qualified veterinarian for a more accurate diagnosis of this problem and careful charting of a combined behavioral and medical intervention plan. There will be no simple or quick answers. Sometimes, skin biopsies are very appropriate to obtain in such intensely itchy patients from a diagnostic point of view. I'd caution against seeking symptomatic treatments (typically fail in the long run and allow the problem to become more chronic and refractory), but would more guide you towards a most optimal and more complete intervention plan.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

I have a 2 year old Lesser Sulphur Crested Cockatoo hen, Perdy . She lives in 35 meter aviary with 15 mixed species or in the house with 2 pet Greys. I think she needs a companion. Should I look for a male or a female given that her species in CITES1 in the wild. Dorothy Schwarz

Answered by Jamie Gilardi:

It really sounds like your bird has a LOT of potential companions already, but back to that in a minute. I suspect what you're really wondering is whether there is a sound conservation justification for breeding your female cockatoo because this species is quite rare in the wild (recall that CITES status isn't specifically about rareness, rather the potential or real threat from trade). Given your bird's history of being around other parrots in the west, it would be very difficult for your bird to be paired for conservation breeding strictly from a disease standpoint. Even if your birds are extraordinarily healthy, they clearly have had opportunities to pick up all sorts of things from all over the world - directly or indirectly - and many of these diseases can be hard to detect. As there are some islands in Indonesia with reasonable numbers of these birds, it is unlikely that captive pet birds like yours or their progeny will play a direct role in the recovery of the species in the wild. Clearly, there are a few species of parrots for which every individual is of potential conservation significance, but these are tremendously rare species like Kakapo, Spix's Macaws, and the like.

But that of course does not mean that your bird(s) can't have huge conservation significance in terms or raising awareness and support for the conservation of their brethren in the wild. Your birds are great ambassadors for their species and for parrots in general. Because they are such engaging and spectacular animals, captive parrots create great opportunities to educate and inspire individuals to help conservation all over the world. Many of the most consistent and generous supporters of parrot conservation have been inspired by a relationship or experience with a single bird and yours may well have the same great influence on people.

In terms of companionship, it's very hard to guess what would be best for your bird without experiencing the individual(s) in question and watching very carefully. My colleagues and I go back and forth on the question of the specific benefits of companionship with a bird's own species vs. other species. Part of the reason for this must be that species and individuals vary a great deal, and some treat birds of their own or other species like potted plants, while others would happily move in with the neighbor's cat (I've had both extremes in my time). If your cockatoo really doesn't get much out of your other birds, you might ask around local rescue centers to see if there is a cockatoo you might introduce her to to see how they get on. But as a cockatoo owner, I'm sure you're aware that there are big and sometimes dangerous gender differences, so be careful, talk to other's knowledgeable about this, and tread cautiously. And of course, practice very careful biosecurity whenever introducing your birds to others or others to your flock.

All best wishes,

Jamie

filed under: Conservation

We are thinking about building an outdoor aviary for our cockatoos and we live on the coast in Oregon. Is it warm enough to keep them outside year round?

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Thanks for the question and for your intention to get your Cockatoos outside in the fresh air and light. The answer to this question will come through conversation, because the answer is determined by us finding out what's right for your birds.

Before you begin aviary construction, ask your avian veterinarian for an assessment of the physical condition of the birds. Examinations, histories and thorough work-ups will help determine their suitability for year-round outdoor activities. I ask my vet to run the same tests she would run on her own beloved birds if faced with the same decision. Then, we analyze the results together. I hope you have a similarly supportive avian vet or that you will cultivate such a relationship as soon as possible for the welfare of your parrots. Perhaps your avian vet already knows your birds and people who have outdoor flights in your area. If you can network with local aviculturists or companion caregivers, their trials and triumphs might be pertinent to the process you follow and the goals you achieve.

We have our Cockatoos outside all year around but central coast CA (3 miles up in the mountains from the coast) is different than Oregon. We enjoy watching them hang upside down in sunlight -- crests ablaze, wings out and flapping, they show us luminous colors in full movement. Our Cockatoos have aviaries that are covered on three sides in the back (4'), uncovered wire in the center (14') and roofed in the front (2') by the feeding stations. They are long-term outdoor birds in excellent health; daily watchful caregivers are alert to their feeding, preening and activity levels for all times of day and night; perches are correctly sized; enrichments are placed to encourage activity and also to allow for privacy if desired. However, we know that the art of aviary design continues, as does the science.

I knew my Galerita elenora Josserlynn was perfectly healthy when I put her in a flight about 10 years ago. A flyer since fledging, Joss immediately loved her new bigger space outside. Still, I checked her on her first cold nights night by touching the foot she perched on -- it was cold. Then I touched the foot her held against her downy chest -- warm as toast. She switched feet: the cold one went up, the warm one down. She was and is fine.

Katy McElroy lives in Ohio and keeps her Cockatoos in a combination indoor/outdoor aviary. The indoors is a cinderblock building heated to 33F in the winter, so the water bowls don't freeze. The doorway to outside is one missing brick. Through this small portal, the 'Toos enter gloriously large and well-perched outdoor flight. I've seen footage of her Cockatoos chewing away at ice-covered perches, and flying in the snow. Importantly, 1) these birds are in amazingly wonderful physical condition and 2) at all times they can choose whether to be inside or outside.

Steve, be sure your birds are physically capable of withstanding its fluctuations. Additionally, you'll want to watch them carefully so you can postiviely reinforce them when they explore their new habitat. Keep the final perch design flexible -- they will show and tell you what they like and how they like it. In an aviary, the larger the better, we can provision our birds with spaces that encourage positive activities such as foraging, swinging, flying, bathing, interaction, privacy and goofing off. An aviary safe from predators that provides escape from harsh weather, access to nice weather, a place where humans and parrots are comfortable as they flock together for meals, playtime, singing and hanging out -- this is the aviary to build.

All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden

filed under: Parrot Care

I have a 35 yr old male yellow-naped amazon that was wild caught. I live on the SF Bay peninsula so you are familiar with the climate. For many years he has had a chronic case of sinusitus. From about 8 years ago, the best advice from my avian vet has been to keep his nares/face misted with clean water several times daily. In general the misting has improved the sinus condition, but not eliminated occasional bouts of stuffy sounding nose. I also usually take him in the shower with me daily, letting the spray only hit his back for a minute or two, not directly into his face. He much prefers misting to the shower. I've noticed that the shower sometimes precipitates an hour or two of a very clogged sounding sinus, even though he may have been ok before the shower.

My question is, should I be doing anything else for his sinus condition, and is the shower time beneficial, or should I just mist him? Aside from the stuffy-sounding nose on occasion, his health is good, he gets out and flys daily, eats Harrisons and vegetables, and his latest blood tests were normal. Thank you for your advice.

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

Sinusitis, technically, simply describes inflamed sinuses. This general description could apply to infections (primary or secondary), allergic issues, inhaled irritants, environmental irritants, foreign bodies, or even tumors in some circumstances. So, a working diagnosis of sinusitis, in my mind's eye, would be merely a symptom of some sort of primary etiology that may be in need of identification.

In the absence of the specific details of your bird's medical case, it would be challenging to provide accurate advice here. In general, should a set of persistent clinical signs remain present in a patient, it is fair to consider revisiting the nature of and accuracy of the diagnosis, seeking hopefully a bit more information with which to guide more definitive treatment(s).

The diet you describe sounds good, and it is good to know that you have established sound basic health information recently. Most sinus problems, even infections, however, do not reflect systemically in a blood test type of workup alone.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

Hello I have a pair of Buffons Macaws they are a year old the females ear never opened and the male only one ear opened. How common is this in macaws and what needs to be done with this problem? What should be done with this problem in baby macaws? Is any one else seeing this?

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

Your question is bringing attention to a problem that is not commonly discussed, but is seen in the large macaws, in pediatric settings. In general, birds that have been stunted or are sub-optimally developed may develop smaller than normal external ear canals. In some circumstances, this may allow for handfeeding materials, keratin or other material to accumulate in the narrow ear canals, potentially setting the stage for secondary infections.

In most cases, there should not be specific intervention required, unless there are repeated secondary problems encountered. In the latter case, under careful operating microscopy and using microsurgical technique, the ear canal can be enlarged.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

I have a 12 year old African Grey & while we are in, he has free flight around the house. He’s healthy very alert & talkative has a good varied diet. Occasionally he has very watery droppings which seem to gush from him lasts for approx 4 dropping in 30 minutes. This can be repeated for the next day or 2. He shows no sigh of being unwell. My other concern is that VERY occasionally his droppings has a spot of blood in them might be in one isolated dropping but the other day it happened twice consecutively. This has been happening for 2 or 3 years and in total I would say that he has had approx 12 episodes. Again I will stress that he is a very lively active bird, Can someone please reassure me that there is nothing to worry about?

Answered by Ellen K. Cook, D.V.M.:

Hi Pat-



I am happy to hear your AG appears to be healthy in every respect except for his episodes of watery droppings. There are many reasons for the changes in droppings that you have noticed. Causes can vary from normal conditions(change in diet, increased water consumption, etc.) to severe disease.



Animals are excellent at disguising serious health problems until their condition appears to deteriorate suddenly. Birds are masters at camouflaging illness. Has your Grey been examined by a veterinarian experienced in treating birds? I would want to perform a good physical exam, fecal examinations, blood tests and possibly more with a parrot that has a history of episodes of watery droppings lasting a day or more, with occasional blood, like you describe in your bird. I would also ask that you keep a food diary, listing everything your bird eats in a typical day. I would want to know the details of the bird's environment, especially with him flying around the house. Is there anything he might ingest (food, plants, chemicals, etc.) that could trigger these episodes?



Here are a couple of links about droppings:



http://www.wingwise.com/droppings.htm


http://www.oldworldaviaries.com/text/miscellaneous/poop.html



Excellent question, Pat! Thanks for your concern for your bird. Let me know how he does.



filed under: Health and Nutrition

Grover, my B&G Macaw screams every time I leave the room. How can I make him stop?

Answered by Lee McGuire:

What a great question Steve.

Why on earth should a macaw vocalize when a human species leaves it's vicinity? What function could it possibly serve? When screaming is ongoing, if we stop to think about it for a few minutes, we could say that those vocalizations serve some purpose for Grover. He gets something out of it. Otherwise, why be bothered wasting time and effort to behave in such a way. What that purpose might be is up to us to find out.

Parrots, like most species on this planet, behave in ways that work for them in their current living situation whether that be free range or captive. That work in ways that are effective, relevant and cost the individual the least amount of it's available resources both behaviorally and physically. In other words, each individual does what works for that individual, in any particular situation, as it wanders through life finding out what has value and what should be avoided.

Using the previous comment as a starting point, we can infer that Grover gets something from those screams of his. If we could discover what purpose those screams might serve, that can form the basis for any intervention in a sound, scientific, respectful and VERY humane way. When you think about it , behaviors that are ongoing, generally occur for only a couple of reasons. Either Grover is vocalizing "to get" something in the surrounding environment or to escape or avoid that which has produced unpleasant consequences in the past. It can be that simple and that complicated trying to deduce what is maintaining any behavior.

What is wonderful Steve, is that you've identified a specific context in which Grover vocalizes. If you leave the room, Grover screams. So we now know what set's the scene for the behavior to occur. What we have here is one half of what's known, in Applied Behavior Analysis, as a Functional Assessment (FA) . To complete our assessment, we would need to know what currently maintains the behavior. In other words, what does Grover "get" when he vocalizes?

How can we discover what might be reinforcing Grover's behavior? By looking at the Grover's surroundings and everything that happens immediately before and after the screaming. Part of that environment includes Steve and his reaction to Grover's "yodelling". You see, very often with captive parrots any excessive vocalizing is a learned behavior that occurs when the bird is soliciting attention from the caregiver.

If our hypothesis is correct we could say:

WHEN: Steve leaves the room
BEHAVIOR: Grover screams
TO GET: Steve to look at or talk to him
Prediction of Future Behaviour: Grover will scream more


Bingo! That look or word is often all that is needed. No matter if it is an annoyed or disgusted look or a less than friendly "shut up!", "stuff it" or any of the other myriad of phrases we humans are prone to come up with. Grover has gotten your attention. That is especially true if you don't comment or look at him all the time. Intermittent reinforcement does make for very persistent behavior on the part of our birds.

Does that mean we can't change the behavior? NO! If we want to alter one behavior, we should be replacing it with another that is of equal value to Grover. Fair is only fair is right? If we identify another behavior that serves the same function and reinforce that while ignoring Grover's excessive vocalizations we can meet that target. For instance, if you recognize Grover for making any sounds that are pleasant to your ear (talking, whistling,etc) and provide lots of feedback in the form of your attention for that then the screaming will serve less of a function for Grover. In other words, it will no longer be worth the extra effort it takes to make loud noises.

Another tactic might be to preempt the behavior before you leave the room by chatting with Grover for a few seconds and telling him you'll return shortly. As with humans, often those few words will be enough. Teaching him to find other reinforcement through foraging and toy playing could also be considered. Not all birds have learned how to interact with the "cage decoration" we put in their cage.

That doesn't mean that any given bird will not have it's moments of exuberance for life. It simple means that excessive "screaming" will reduce if we offer immediate praise and attention for behaving in ways that we appreciate and don't require ear protection.

All in all Steve there are a number of ways that you can reduce the loud noises Grover makes when you leave the room.

Best
Lee grin

filed under: Behaviour and Training

Hi Susan, it's wonderful to see you here!!! I wrote you about my recently adopted LSC2 who engages in a ceremonious/ritualistic behavior. I am curious if you think this is possibly anting behavior? Here is a short video clip. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v232/Echosmom/?action=view¤t=009.flv As always, thank you!!!

Answered by Susan Friedman & LLP Course Graduates:

Thanks for your warm hello, Janet! Sending a video link of Sydney's behavior is a great help. To catch everyone up with our previous correspondence, Sydney is being seen by a veterinarian and you are improving her nutrition and enriching her living environment. This trio is always the right first step.

According to Barrows Animal Behavior Desk Reference, A Dictionary of Animal Behavior, Ecology and Evolution (2nd ed.), anting is a bird's seizing one or more ants and placing it in its feathers under its wing or elsewhere; crushing the ant with its bill and rubbing its juices on its feathers; dusting itself in an ant hill, or a combination of these activities. Apparently over 200 species of birds do it but I am not aware of any scientific data describing anting with parrots. This would be a good question for you to ask on the main WPT list.

There is a lack of consensus over whether or not similar behavior patterns exhibited with objects rather than ants (wood, eucalypt leaves, paper, novel objects) should be included in the definition of anting. This issue is based on the same reasoning that forms the crux of my response to you: No one really knows why birds engage in anting. Commonly repeated hypothesis include parasite control, food preparation, and sensory reinforcement but it remains, “mysterious and controversial”, according to Barrows. So, while the topography (its physical shape and form) is similar to what we see our captive birds do, the extent to which it shares the same function as anting is not knowable at this time.

This is a good opportunity to exercise critical thinking skills. Lots of behaviors have a similar topography that are not functionally the same. For example, the topography of putting on lipstick is the same as putting on lip balm but the function of the former is decoration and the latter is medicinal, relieving dry lips. Sometimes the topographies of 2 behaviors differ but the function is the same. For example, shouting "Hello!" across a crowed room has a very different topography than waving wildly but they share the same function -- getting someone’s attention.

Regarding the relation between anting and Sydney’s behavior, alluring logical hypotheses notwithstanding, more research is needed. Unfortunately, the more urgently we need answers to solve behavior problems, the more likely we are to connect dots invalidly. It takes discipline to hold the line at creative thinking without crossing over the line by generating explanatory fictions.

Another phrase in your email is also relevant to this point. You describe Sydney's behavior as ceremonial/ritualistic but we can't know if the behavior serves a similar function as the ritualized behavior of, for example, people with obsessive compulsive disorder (OCD), in spite of its similar topography. The function of the compulsive behaviors in OCD is said to reduce feelings of dread.

Sydney's behavior is also similar in topography to another behavior pattern called stereotypies, which are characterized by relatively invariant, repetitive behaviors that have no apparent function. Stereotypies are very common among captive animals and people with developmental disabilities. It has been well researched in both the human educational and zoo settings. See http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/abstract/110573483/ABSTRACT for more info with zoo animals).

Anting? OCD? Stereotypies? Too much time on her beak? Other hypotheses? Our questions exceed our science. Fortunately, if you think Sydney’s quality of life would improve by doing this behavior less, the teaching technology of applied behavior analysis can help you teach her to do other behaviors more. Strategies like shaping new behaviors by reinforcing gradual steps toward the goal behavior and differential reinforcement of alternative behaviors are powerful tools to change behavior humanely. I know you are well on your way to accomplishing that goal.

All best,
S
Susan G. Friedman, Ph.D.
Utah State University
Dept of Psychology
Dept of Special Education
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

“Do not go where the path may lead;
go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” Emerson

filed under: Behaviour and Training

Our pet Black-headed Caique has become territorial and aggressive with me when ever he is around my wife. What can I do to help moderate this behaviour?

Answered by Susan Friedman & LLP Course Graduates:

Thank you for your important question. The very first step to understanding behavior is to replace diagnostic labels with the observable behavior your bird *does* and the conditions in which he does the behavior. You've used two labels: Territorial and aggressive. Those labels are used to describe a wide variety of behaviors. What does you bird do, that can be observed, and what are the immediate conditions that predict when he will do them? We modify behavior by changing the conditions under which it occurs, one behavior at a time.

I hope you don't mind my answering your question with two questions! After you tell me the observable behaviors and conditions in which they occur, we can proceed with the next step.

All best,
Susan G. Friedman, Ph.D.
Utah State University
Dept of Psychology
Dept of Special Education
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

“Do not go where the path may lead;
go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” Emerson

filed under: Behaviour and Training

What is the life span of the Maroon Bellied Conure?

Answered by Sue Larson:

On average the life span of the Maroon Bellied Conure is 18 - 25 yrs.

filed under: Parrot Care

Do parrots need grit as a part of their diet?

Answered by E.B. Cravens:

This is a controversial question to answer. for so man years, certain veterinarians and pet bird keepers have continued to preach that captive parrots can overdose on grit and become crop-impacted as a result.....truth is, field studies have shown that psittacines of all kinds do go to the ground and ingest grit for many reasons--they even feed it to the chicks in the nest. My breeder parrots, all of which have access to the ground, will begin to ingest soil and sand and crunchy substrate one to two weeks before the laying stage and continue to eat grit well through the first weeks of chick feeding. I first observed this in my older experienced and imported pairs of parrots and so I began to take notice!

The key for the pet owner is what species you are keeping---certain parrots like cockatiels, lovebirds, princess and other ground foraging species (including cockatoos) will take more grit that eclectus, capes, lorikeets and the like. Soft food eaters need less grit than do seed eaters such as budgerigars. Sometimes the soft food lovers will choose less course grit to satisfy their needs---things like clay and very fine soil. These are perhaps less gritty and do not precipitate the same digestive activity--instead acting as soil type filler and mineral supplement for the birds. Study your species...it will tell you much about a need for ground minerals...

Finally, it must be emphasized that the addition of grit to the domestic parrot diet can be done very safely if one gives small salt and pepper amounts of clean bird grit to the diet once every two or three weeks. For example, I add two tablespoons of oyster shell/sand/mineral grit to my flocks wet foods once every two to four weeks (more often during breeding season). This amount is for 24 full sized parrots, grey to macaw size. With aloha, EB

filed under: Health and Nutrition

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