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We have a 2 year old Galah cockatoo who is playful. The other day he had an accident – we have an electric oven and he one of the rings had not cooled down and he walked over it (there is glass above the ring). He seems to be OK but a little subdued and has a small sore on his left foot. Is there anything you recommend we do, does he need to see a vet in case of infection? He is weight-bearing on his other foot. I feel terrible about this as I am normally extremely careful around the home with him.

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

When there are concerns about the health and welfare of your bird, a proper physical examination by a veterinarian is appropriate, and I certainly recommend it for your bird if there are problems here.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

Dear EB, I am moving my blue-fronted parrot Manitou to a conservatory where he will be able to enjoy the moonlight, extra light from the double glazed windows and see the birdfeeders we have in the garden. I am wanting to make his environment interesting and stimulating and would like to grow the palm nut plant (palm oil palm) out there as I would love to see him pick off his own from the tree itself. Also we are planning to grow the passion fruit and Kiwi plants, and an olive tree. I would be grateful if you would kindly advise me if any of these plants would be harmful to him as he will be flying free in the conservatory as well as using a Double Nova cage. Also please can you recommend sources of information regarding safe conservatory plants as we will always be developing a leafy green environment for him. Thank you for your help. Sarah

Answered by E.B. Cravens:

Dear Sarah, It sounds like you will have room for many different plants in your new bird atrium. All varieties of palms will usually fruit different cluster styles of palm nuts once they are mature (usually seven or eight years or more) so you need not look for the really tall palms. We like cluster palms and arecas since they are easy to control and will take more chewing by large parrots without dying. We have used a variety of olive in the past and our birds showed no ill effects. They liked to eat the tiny green olives and buds. Passionfruit is not listed as toxic on any of the lists I have seen, but from years of having it here, we notice that our parrots, including the once wild adopted ones, never chew the vine or flowers. That prompted us to stop giving it and only offering the fruit which all our birds love dearly. I think other potential non-toxic vines and berry trees would be a better idea. Also consider the bamboos, prolific orchids, banana, juniper and some other evergreen like Norfolk Island Pine or casuarina. There is good information online if you google "safe plants for parrots" or "toxic plants parrots." Good luck in your endeavor. EB

filed under: Health and Nutrition

We have a female African Grey approximately 30 years old and until recently been in good health. Our avian vet. found cloaca papiloms which were successfully removed with silver nitrate. Upon recheck they had returned. A more complex surgery was rejected as a treatment due to age and possibility of recurrence. We have tried Acyclovir with limited success. We are looking for any other reasonable treatment but have not found any. Any possible treatments that have a possibility of success that we should investigate would be greatly appreciated.

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

Overall, infectious papillomatous disease is comparatively quite rare in the grey parrot. My first recommendations would be to ask your attending veterinarian about the specific manner in which this diagnosis has been confirmed. Proper diagnosis requires biopsy with correlating histopathology. There is a facial papillomavirus infection reported in grey parrots, and there has been one grey parrot reported to be infected with Psittacid herpesvirus, but this bird did not have cloacal papillomas as has been seen in South American species of parrots. Acyclovir has been used in active herpesviral infections to help stop viral replication, but this drug has not been shown to have merit in the treatment of papillomatous disease associated with Psittacid herpesviral infections. Other considerations you may have to keep in mind here could include mechanically induced cloacal inflammation, bacterial cloacitis, or cloacal carcinoma. A carefully selected and diagnostic biopsy will get you quite far towards accurate diagnosis, with potentially an aerobic culture sample from the biopsy site. Once diagnosis is clarified, treatment should become much more straightforward.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

Hi: I have a yellow-cheeked Amazon that I purchased from a pet shop 8 yrs. ago. At first he/she was very loving and I could walk anywhere with him. Two years ago he started attacking me for no apparent reason, flying at me and biting. He has an open cage door and comes and goes as he pleases. I can not predict when the attacks will happen. We can be chatting and he'll fly at me and when he lands, he bites. Any suggestions as to what I can and should do would be most helpful. Thank you. Sincerely "Merlinsmon"


I recently adopted Joey who came from a house where the guy would throw things at the cage if he made any noise. Joey is very sweet and loving with me. He will follow me around the house like a puppy or if I'm sitting down, he will come over and rub on me like a cat just wanting to be petted and hugged.

The only problem is Joey is afraid of my husband, Evan. Whenever Evan gets near him, Joey will try to run away. I've been making Evan give him all of his treats and food. Joey will take the treat from Evan only if Joey is in his cage, or sometimes on top of his cage. Otherwise Joey just runs from him, usually into the other room where I have to go get him and bring him back. I'd send Evan to retrieve him but I'm afraid that that will do more harm than good.

I've had Joey for about a week now. I know that he needs more time to adjust to his new home and to Evan. I plan on doing anything and everything for him to help him to settle in and be a happy little birdy. Do you have any ideas on helping him settle in faster? I've had someone suggest clicker training and having Evan read to Joey. Any thoughts on these? Any other suggestions?

I do have some, meaning 1, experience with rescue birds. My severe macaw mas mistreated in his previous home and was very aggressive when we first brought him home. It took us about a month of working with him and now he is, most of the time at least, a well behaved and loving little guy. Dealing with an aggressive bird is a lot different than dealing with a fearful bird though and I just want to make sure that I do everything right for both of my birds.

I can't wait for the day when Joey is as happy and loving with Evan as he is with me.

Thanks!
Crystal

Answered by Steve Martin & Staff:

Hello Crystal, My name is Miranda DeVries and I am an avian trainer with Steve Martin's Natural Encounters, Inc. First, I would like to commend you for seeking help so quickly for Joey and your husband, Evan. It says a lot about your compassion for Joey that you want him to have a positive and reinforcing relationship with everyone in your household.

My first thoughts when reading your question was that any man who enters Joey's life after the abuse and mistreatment he may have suffered by his previous male owner may have to start his relationship with Joey basically from scratch. The past does not equal the present, however, and despite what may have occurred in the past you and your husband have the power to shape and modify the behavior you're seeing now. This may sound a little daunting at first but with lots of positive reinforcements and interactions I believe Joey and Evan can have a relationship that they both are happy with.

You are well on your way to helping Evan and Joey build a positive relationship by not forcing Evan on Joey. Forcing a bird to be around someone or do something that makes the bird fearful can lead to more aggressive behaviors, even biting. Any interactions Evan and Joey have right now should be when Joey is in his cage because from your question you say that is the only place Joey will take treats from Evan. I do not recommend that Evan read to Joey because from your question it would seem that the simple presence of Evan is a negative experience for Joey right now since he may not trust Evan. I love your idea of having Evan feed Joey his favorite treats. The treat Evan gives Joey is something positive that he will begin to associate with your husband. You want to make sure, though, that when Evan does this the body language that Joey is presenting is positive and calm, and that he is not displaying possible signs of fear or aggression such as quick, jerking body movements, feathers slicked tightly against his body, or alarm calling. If Joey does present Evan with negative body language Evan should simply walk away from his cage. Walking away from the cage allows Joey to have power over his environment. Evan can simply return later and give Joey a treat when he is presenting positive body language. By giving Joey the power to make Evan leave if he is feeling uncomfortable, and limiting their time together to those instances when Joey's behavior suggests that he is feeling comfortable about Evan's presence, this will only help both Evan and your bird decrease the amount of negative interactions they have, therefore making their overall history together a more positive one in total. After the positive interactions of Evan giving Joey his treat have occurred for awhile you and your husband might notice that Joey looks at Evan when he enters the room or moves toward his food bowl before he even gets the treat.

After Evan can give Joey a treat in his bowl (that is both positive and reinforcing to both) he can start to give him treats from his hand while Joey sits nicely on his perch. At first Evan can bait Joey away from his bowl by showing him a treat in his hand over by Joey's perch. Evan can eventually fade out the bait and just use a hand motion to send Joey to his perch and feed him through the cage. Just remember if Joey shows Evan any negative body language (behavior) Evan should simply walk away and return when Joey's behavior is more positive – the basic rule that we follow in all our training is to reward behaviors that we like and to ignore the ones that we don't. We always strive to give our birds the power to choose whether or not to participate in our training sessions. If our birds choose not to participate, by displaying body language such as the examples mentioned above, we simply leave with the treats and try again later when they offer body language that is calm and inviting, such as still body posture with loose feathering, or walking towards the side of the cage where we are standing.

Once Joey is comfortable with Evan coming up to his cage and feeding him, Evan may even try getting some of Joey's behaviors on cue while still in his cage. The behavior could be simply a pleasing sound that Joey makes or targeting a toy with his beak. When training these behaviors, if Evan finds he cannot give Joey his treat quickly after the correct behavior is performed, he can use a bridge. A bridge is a signal to the animal that what it has just done at that exact moment was good, and that reinforcement is on its way – it gets its name because it "bridges" the gap in time between when the animal has performed the desired behavior and when the rewards is presented to the animal for performing the behavior. We at Natural Encounters, Inc., normally use a quick verbal ‘good' as a bridge. As was suggested in your question, you can also give a click with a clicker. Evan should keep a handful of treats on him and whenever he hears Joey make the noise or do whatever behavior he decides, he can bridge Joey and give him the treat. When Joey is making the noise (or performing the behavior) consistently Evan can start to cue him for it. A cue can be anything at all (verbal or hand signal) that lets the bird know that you want him to make that noise or perform that behavior. Birds are extremely visual and tend to pick up on hand cues easier than verbal cues. Evan may notice that every time Joey performs the desired noise/behavior, he first flaps his wings or does some sort of behavior just before the noise/behavior is about to occur. When Evan sees that, he can cue Joey for the desired behavior, bridge after it is presented, and then walk over and provide the reinforcement. The behavior itself can be something very simple at first, such as training Joey to touch or hold a toy that is in his cage, and if both Joey and Evan enjoy the interactions it entails then you can move on to more complicated behaviors from there.

Once Evan and Joey have a comfortable relationship within the cage they can start working on their relationship outside of the cage. Depending on their comfort level with one another and Evan's criteria of what he wants his relationship with Joey to be, he may even choose to work on stepping Joey up out of his cage using either his hand or a more stable tool like a stick or T-perch. While this may seem like a simple behavior at first glance, the process of teaching a bird to do this using positive training methods can actually be quite a detailed and lengthy process that should never be rushed. If you are interested in learning more about the steps involved in training a bird to step up using positive reinforcement, please let us know and we'd be happy to provide you with further details. The key to all this is that Evan should continue to reinforce the behavior that he likes, allow Joey's body language to shape his own, and in doing so diligently I think you will be amazed at the progress both your bird and your husband will be able to make. In your email you say that Joey is currently fleeing from Evan when he approaches. If Evan can learn to read Joey's subtle signs of discomfort, Evan can take steps now to make sure it doesn't get to that point with the two of them again. If Evan slowly approaches Joey with a treat and Joey's feathers become tight or his posture changes suggesting that he wants to move away, Evan should freeze and take a small step back. If Joey's feathers soften and his weight shifts to a comfortable low position, Evan can then slowly proceed forward, repeating this process and truly allowing Joey to tell Evan how quickly or slowly (or even whether or not) he can approach. This process gives Joey power by allowing him to make Evan retreat with just the slightest change in body language, and will make Joey much more comfortable with Evan's presence overall.

Crystal, I hope the above helps Evan and Joey and even yourself build a more positive relationship. If you have any further questions I recommend our website http://www.naturalencounters.com, which features our responses to companion parrot questions such as yours that we have received over the years, articles on bird behavior, training, and enrichment, and information on the companion parrot owner workshops that we offer several times a year at our training facility in Winter Haven, FL. Best of luck to you all!


Sincerely,


Miranda DeVries
Avian Trainer
Natural Encounters, Inc.

filed under: Behaviour and Training

Hi Phoebe, Due to toweling my new young male Eclectus to medicate him, he is now terrified of towels. Is there a way to get him past this fear? He is also bonded to his cage and doesn't want to spend time with me away from his cage. I've taken him to other homes to socialize, but this didn't help. He became bonded to his cage before the medical problem was addressed. He aspirated as a baby and came down with pneumonia and it seems that the stress of coming to a new home triggered symptoms that required medical attention. This cost me over $1300 in vet bills. I haven't told the breeder because I don't think she would believe me. In your opinion should the breeder be held responsible for the illness, and what can I do? Before the 6 weeks of medication the bird was never active and sat in one place until it was apparent to me that he was very sick when food from his crop poured out of his mouth. That day x-rays should very cloudy lungs. He was put on medication for 6 weeks. After a couple of attempts with toweling and medicating him I laced cornbread with his medication instead of further traumatizing him during the time we were supposed to be bonding. When I bought him I noticed that a few of his red feathers contained yellow on both sides of his body. I now believe this is an outward sign that he sustained trauma of aspirating as a baby. It must have been a small amount.

The doctor said it is very common. Having a standoffish bird is not what I had in mind and I don't know what to do about it. Do you have any thoughts about all this? Thank you.

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Kathleen, I’m so sorry for your little guy. He’s been through a lot for being young. Please tell us exactly how old he is and his name, OK?

Even though you have both been through a certain amount of trauma, the good point is that you probably have a solid relationship with an avian vet who can continue to help your parrot maintain good health. Perhaps a person at the vet hospital took a particular interest in him and can now become his babysitter and part of your local support network. All in all, robust health is the key to good relationship and increased activity and will contribute to his desire to explore more territory. Recovery from aspiration depends upon how much air sac tissue was affected so be sure to have him re-checked by your avian vet. The moment he seems down and inactive is the time to have him checked, not later.

Whether or not you confront the breeder with the past events depends on the relationship you have with that person. If you are confident that the result will yield desired results then sure, give a call. However, if you think there will be acrimony and that nothing will come of it, my advice is to concentrate on the here and now with your eclectus and stay in the moment.

Also, aspiration can happen at any time. It could have happened when he was a teeny baby, or in the carrier during transport to your home, or while he was at your house.

Parrots form bonds throughout their lives so its not like you’ve missed one critical bonding period that will never happen again. You did the right thing by getting him healthy when he was sick. When he’s confirmed healthy and active once again, put food bowls at the front of the cage, put some half perches on the cage door and keep the door open as much as possible. Fix it so that he can eat both at the front of the cage or while perching on the open cage door. My eclectus love mega millet and will go for it wherever it hangs—try it to see if it entices him, too.

It’s most important for you to discover what he finds reinforcing, what he does that comforts him, what behaviors he conducts to soothe himself and then acknowledge these. Try to set up the physical and emotional environments to encourage more of these behaviors. Watch him and catch him doing something cute like puffing his feathers, scratching his head with his foot, turning around on his perch, or cocking his head and give those behaviors verbal reinforcement. Key in to what he’s doing by giving him your undivided attention and praise when you see him moving to soothe himself and/or moving towards you. Also, establish a contact whistle or call that you use when you enter the house, his room, his area and use this consistently.

Please check out the following articles which will really help you:
http://www.parrots.org/pdfs/all_about_parrots/reference_library/behaviour_and_environmental_enrichment/Shaping%20New%20Behaviors.pdf

http://www.parrots.org/pdfs/all_about_parrots/reference_library/behaviour_and_environmental_enrichment/Success%20Files.pdf

Remember, we are trying to increase his physical skills and we do this by creating environments where it’s easy for him to do physical behaviors. We want him to gain physical acuity and increase the numbers of observable behaviors he conducts. When he walks or climbs from perch to perch, touches toys, destroys a stalk of mega millet, scratches his head with one foot, then with the other, turns around and fans his tail, rings a bell or whistles when you enter the room, you and he will have fully bonded.

Also, seriously consider purchasing Barbara Heidenreich’s books because they will help you establish an excellent and active relationship with your parrot. Therein, you’ll learn about desensitizing him to towels through the creation of non-threatening learning situations.

Keep us posted, Kathleen.

All best,
Phoebe

filed under: Behaviour and Training

Hi EB, I want to ask you if is better to clip or not the wings. I have a baby Congo African Grey and I didn't clip his wings. He is 18 weeks. He is flying a lot and is so happy. Please tell me what it is best for him.

Regards,
Oana

Answered by E.B. Cravens:

Oana, Except in the cases of medical necessity or behavior safety (ie. mate killing, etc.) it is always more proper to leave parrots with flight feathers.

It increases their aerobic and athletic health, makes them safer from falls and attacks by animals, increases self confidence and alertness, decreases problems like egg binding, and basically makes birds like your Grey "happier" in a natural way.

There are some dangers with flight--glass windows, parrots that have not been taught to come to an arm or fly down can escape the house, aggressive and jealous species may take to "buzzing" humans they do not like, and so forth.

Also in limited indoor spaces, it is sometimes appropriate to trim two or three of the outermost primary feathers at the front of the wing (one feather at a time over a two week period!) to increase flapping exercise in parrots that seem to be lazy flyers or only have room to glide and land....

Cheers,
EB

filed under: Health and Nutrition

I am writing because it is clear to me how difficult it is for the average person who shares his or her home with a parrot to create an environment where their parrot will actually thrive. Most parrot are social animals and need interaction with members of their social group. Since people often have to work, single parrots are left alone a large part of the day. Parrots evolved to fly in the open sky and we are often forced to keep them in cages. Given the complex nutritional requirements of these animals, it is not always easy to know what to provide as an appropriate diet. Parrots are highly intelligent and sensitive creatures and often do better with people who have taken the time to learn training techniques involving positive reinforcement. How many people can afford the time it really takes to learn effective ways to interact with their parrot? The number of abandoned parrots is powerful evidence of our failure to provide an environment where
both parrots and people can thrive. In addition to parrots that need to be re-homed, another indication of the difficulty of providing a reasonable environment for parrots is the number of plucked and mutilated birds that exist within our communities [see Joe Arbogast’s tribute to featherpickers: http://www.bird-tube.com/absolutevc/avc-view.aspx?videoid=127&categoryid= ].

If you share your life with a dog and you care about your dog, you have a reasonably good chance of meeting a dog’s need for social interaction, adequate diet and exercise. Your job is made a lot easier because a dog is a domesticated animal and has evolved to share its life with humans. In order for a dog to get exercise, it is possible to take a dog running or let it free in the backyard for a period of time. The average parrot person does not have the resources to provide an aviary for their parrots and parrots cannot be set free in the average backyard to enjoy the outdoors.
Parrots are often deprived of adequate social interaction either with their human companions or members of their own species and it is very difficult to give them opportunities to adequately exercise, forage for food and fly. Unlike dogs, parrots have not really evolved to live with humans. Although they are raised in captivity, parrots clearly retain their wild instincts and these instincts shape the behaviors that parrots display in our homes [e.g. parrot vocalizations] and new parrot owners are usually not educated to this reality. Since dogs are relatively common in our communities, people absorb information about how to care for them over time. Most people who share their home with parrots do not have this built-in educational advantage and essential parrot information must be sought out from a variety of experts who have spent their life working and living with parrots. The bottom line is that even if you are fortunate to have learned
about the basic needs of pscittacines, most people will have great difficulty providing an environment where these amazing animals can thrive.

So my question is this: Can we design and build community “Parrot Day Care” aviaries that might meet the needs of our parrots for foraging, social interaction and flight? I know that I, for one, would be willing to pay for “parrot day care” if I thought that my bird was safe & enjoyed the time it got to spend in an environment much closer to its natural environment. I would also be willing to drop my bird off at a facility like this. Further, it might be possible to help other parrot owners learn about how to better meet the basic needs of their birds if concrete examples were available for them to see at a “Parrot Center”. I realize that there would be issues with health concerns & aggression from other birds but I am hoping that these issues might be addressed by requiring health checks/vaccines [frequently already required before you can board a parrot], housing compatible species together (along with monitoring the birds while they were together). So the question is: is this a viable concept? And, if this concept does have the potential to solve more problems than it creates, can we develop guidelines for designing and building a “parrot day care” facility that would minimize dangers and maximize enrichment for our birds?
Thanks.
Terry-

Answered by E.B. Cravens:

Your inquiry was long and there are so many aspects of it that merit comment.

Yes, keeping parrots in captivity is a challenge and many owners fall short in providing stimulating environments, foods, activity, etc. for their birds. On the other hand huge progress in education of psittacine owners has been accomplished in the last 10 years or so and many keepers ARE using imagination and foresight in providing for their pets.

But, it is kind of a glass-half -mpty/half-full discussion since there were so many hundreds of thousands of parrots going into homes the past 20 plus years that it is only logical that many hundreds are going to end up neglected or less than adequately cared for.

In that, parrots are much like dogs and cats and fish and horses and other captive animals living their lives "by human leave." Many are ill treated. Your feeling that meeting needs of these animals is easier is a bit rosy colored. Dogs are abandoned and kept inside or penned or tied up without room to run; cats are let out to fight or fed overly rich foods, or allowed to produce unwanted kittens by the half dozen by some owners; horses overworked or under tended orsimply turned out on lean pastures and expected to stay healthy during poor grass growth; shucks, people even keep bee hives without any consideration to giving the bees water to drink....

Anyway, I disagree that most owners do not have the resources to provide an aviary for their parrots. I find most bird people, even the well meaning ones, tend to spend thousands of dollars a year on themselves, but neglect to get a new cage or an extra special expensive food diet for their bird.

In addition my parrots always get time out in the back yard even for short stretches in winter.....those former wing trimmed ones were placed in trees to climb and chew or hung in carry cages while I was out supervising; the flighted ones were trained to stay put with me watching over them nearby. Harnesses, screen gazebos--all sorts of ways can get parrots outside.

As to your basic question: I think it as a wonderful idea and should someone in an agreeable setting choose to do the day care thing, it would certainly be financially viable. After all, people pay significant daily sums to have their pets boarded at vets, bird stores or other facilities. The same protocols for health checks and safe intermixing of only healthy birds would apply in your case, with the added benefit of having outdoor air and sunlight conditions lessening the chances of many microbes being as highly contagious.

So, I concur, it is a good idea, and one which has infinite possibilities for some enterprising parrot lover. Unfortunately, you will have to move it forward; I have neither enterprising time nor enough parrots in need in my neighborhood to get such a project off the ground....

With aloha, EB

filed under: Ethics and Welfare

Dear Sir, I would be very much obliged if you kindly go through the contents of my letter and advise me the medical course to be followed. We are three in my family based in Bhopal, MP and about five years back my daughter brought one baby bird (parrot)and since then we have been so fond of parrot that in todays condition it is really unbelievable that we cannot live without parrot with us. Today we have four parrots and two love birds in our fault and they all remain open out of their cage and their presence at all places in my small flat is felt. Things so far was very very enjoyable for us. About 15 days back we have added one more baby bird (parrot)who is hardly 25 / 27 days old and feathers have just started appearing all around body. We were taking extreme care for his growth, but one unfortunate incidence which happened on 22.02.08 (6-20 p.m.)has changed the total environment of my family. The baby bird fell from our hand at an approximate height of 6 ft straight on to the floor and since then he has been struggling. Immediately after the incidence I rushed to a medical centre and based on their advice I gave 1/2 Ciproflox 250 mg and combiflem 1/2 which he vomitted immdiately and the condition of the said bird detoriating. After about one hour we took him to a nearby doctor of a dog and other pet centre where he was administered an injection containing medicines (vetcort .2 ml I/M + Melonex .2 mg I/M). This was the course of medicines that were applied on him on the day of incidence. The doctor said that it needed a life saving drugs that's why this injection was given and if god wants it will regain its normalcy. Next day morning after seeing him struggle for the entire night we again took him to the same doctor who after thoroughly checking the baby bird (parrot) confirmed that there has been several internal injuries in the lower part of its body as it had straight fallen from a height of 6 ft and couldn't take off his weight by opening his wing at the time of fall, otherwise part of his weight could have been absorbed. There has only a few feathers that have so far appeared in his body is in upper part of the body covering his wings which is not enough for flying. There may be several fractures in his neck and the abdominal zones. Doctor applied spray around his body to soothe his pain and also multivitan syrup was given thrice on the next including glucon D and from evening the combination of Ceflixime and ibugesic plus syrup @ 2 drops each are being given three times. It seems he has little improved but in our opinion he is still in danger. We want him back like other days and would be very much thankful if you could advise us the name of medicines that could better work at this moment and the name if there is any doctor available in Bhopal. We are constantly monitoring the situation but unable to do anything more because of non availability of any scope in Bhopal. Meanwhile, in three days besides several vomitting, it had toilet twice, today and yesterday which was full of clotted blood. We cannot measure whether he is still having bleeding inside. Since you are associated with a cause that's simply best so far as we are concerned we feel we must seek your guidance in the matter. Can you really advise me as what I can do right now and the details of medicines that the baby bird needs a t the moment. I am eagerly awaiting your reply in the matter, for which myself and my family would personally remain ever thankful to you and your organization.

Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:

I hope your little bird has continued to recover from its injuries with the supportive care advice that Phoebe G. had provided. Looking back through your description of clinical signs, treatments administered and how this bird was doing, there are concerns that come to my mind but these would be most realistically tempered by the response of this bird to nursing and supportive care. 1/2 of a tablet of Ciprofloxacin would be about 125 mg, which would be the dose typically administered to a 6 kilogram bird, and no parrots are in this large of a weight range. Presuming that this youngster is a typical youngster, that dose should have been considerably higher than optimally desired. When administered in a tablet form, sometimes these products lodge in the esophagus, and cause mechanical irritation, which theoretically could have a role with the continued discomfort in swallowing that you describe with this young chick. I am not familiar with the specific brand names or drug concentrations mentioned (Vetcort and Melonex), and cannot comment on their potential merit or problems. Many products ending with "cort" are cortisone or corticosteriod drugs, which generally are not recommended for use in birds, particularly in youngsters. Sometimes, in an urgent "life saving" situation, however, these types of drugs may be used. Your greatest probability of this chick recovering from a mechanical injury will be through simple supportive care, and not through the use of drugs, overall. Fluid support (administered by gavage or parenterally) is huge in this regard, as is the delivery of good nutrition and warmth. I hope this bird has recovered, and wish you the best. Thanks so much for trying so hard to help this feathered soul.

filed under: Health and Nutrition

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