About Dr. Brian Speer, DVM
Avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer was raised in a small town on California's coast. He received his BS in Biology…
Ask An Expert: Dr. Brian Speer, DVM
Browse by category: Parrot Care, Behaviour and Training, Conservation, Ethics and Welfare, Housing and Environmental Enrichment, General, Health and Nutrition
A friend of mine's 20-ish yr old Moluccan was just diagnosed with epithelial neoplasia of the humerus. The diagnosis was made by the U. of Davis in CA. Due to the loss of blood and breakdown of the bone they are recommending amputation of the wing and have stated that this type of cancer is very aggressive. While there is no evidence that it has metastasized his prognosis is not good. So now my friend has some very difficult choices to make concerning the quality of life her beloved bird faces. She is trying to absorb this devasating news and locate as much information as she can on this type of
cancer so that she can make an informed decision as to what the future holds for them. Do you have any advice as to questions she should be asking her vet, the oncologist and the team at the University?
cancer so that she can make an informed decision as to what the future holds for them. Do you have any advice as to questions she should be asking her vet, the oncologist and the team at the University?
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
Your questions are fair, and intentions are good with this question. Unfortunately, without any more detailed specific information, it would be impossible if not quite misleading for me to provide you with specific answers about the patient in question. Here are some important thoughts to consider though as you help your friend muddle through these issues:There are a number of different types of cancers that can be found in this area. Epithelial neoplasia is not an accurate enough description, unfortunately. Squamous cell carcinoma, metastatic air sac carcinoma, Osteosarcoma, Fibrosarcoma, etc all would be potentially more accurate descriptions with which to work with. Each of these tumor types has certan behavioral tendencies. Metastasis, overall, with most of these tumors in birds is rare. Treatment options are limited by the size and type of tumor, the location and degree of involvement / invasiveness, the specific type of surgical removal or debulking procedure being considered, the potential benefit for surgical removal, the risk of surgical removal, the potential for non-surgical treatments such as radiation, chemotherapy, or combinations of these options. The overall health and stability of the patient also influences the treatment options being considered. In addition, the behavior of the bird and its interaction in the home environments influence treatments - as a wild and comparatively unhandleable bird may suffer from a much lower quality of life with a wing removed when compared to a pet bird that can be trained and helped to adapt to its new condition(s).
Best suggestions: Sit down and have a talk with the diagnosing clinicians. What is the EXACT diagnosis? What are ALL of the treatment options and relative prognosis / risk with each? What are the relative potential costs with each of these? What do you feel is the best, knowing my bird and myself? (IE: What would YOU do). This last question is one gathering the professional / personal opinions, not necessarily having to be a solid guideline, but does provide helpful information to hear.
If surgery is to be considered - What is the procedure, exactly? How many of these procedures has the surgeon done? Are there other opinions or surgeons that may offer me a better potential success rate?
filed under: Health and Nutrition
We are a retired couple living in Mexico for the past 8 years. Six years ago we rescued a Military Macaw that was being kept in very poor conditions. We do not know the age of the bird but we do know that she is a female (DNA sexing). Almost a year ago the macaw was attacked by a dog and received a head
injury from being slammed on the floor. It seemed touch and go for awhile, but she seems to be recovering well. She has never recovered the strength
in her beak that she had previously but her cooordination seems much better. On that occasion she was seen several times by a vet here who
prescribed anti-inflamatories (intramuscular and oral) As I say, she seems to be better from this incident, but for the past several months she has
been scratching at her ears. We thought it was due to new feathers that were irritating and itching, but then she started with the "yawning" for
lack of a better description of her actions. She looks like someone trying to clear their middle ears on an airplane. This led me to have a closer
look at her ears and I found that one of the ear canals was closed and seemed to be plugged with a crusty substance. One canal was closed more
than the other side as well as having this crusty substance present. I have spoken with a vet from the government wildlife rescue agency in
Guadalajara and he recommended dosing her with ENROFLOXACINA which I have come to find out is a very strong antibiotic used in the avian industry. He
suggested that long-term use might provoke liver damage, so I am hesitant to use it for very long. After ten days of treatment (4 drops of ENROFLOXACINA
in 100 ml of water), she seems possibly somewhat better but the ear canal remains very small (not completely closed as before)with no encrustations.
In all other respects she seems fine. Her feathers look great and she seems happy. Does this sound like the correct treatment for what appears to be an ear
infection? Do you think that the blow to the head could have precipitated the ear infection?
injury from being slammed on the floor. It seemed touch and go for awhile, but she seems to be recovering well. She has never recovered the strength
in her beak that she had previously but her cooordination seems much better. On that occasion she was seen several times by a vet here who
prescribed anti-inflamatories (intramuscular and oral) As I say, she seems to be better from this incident, but for the past several months she has
been scratching at her ears. We thought it was due to new feathers that were irritating and itching, but then she started with the "yawning" for
lack of a better description of her actions. She looks like someone trying to clear their middle ears on an airplane. This led me to have a closer
look at her ears and I found that one of the ear canals was closed and seemed to be plugged with a crusty substance. One canal was closed more
than the other side as well as having this crusty substance present. I have spoken with a vet from the government wildlife rescue agency in
Guadalajara and he recommended dosing her with ENROFLOXACINA which I have come to find out is a very strong antibiotic used in the avian industry. He
suggested that long-term use might provoke liver damage, so I am hesitant to use it for very long. After ten days of treatment (4 drops of ENROFLOXACINA
in 100 ml of water), she seems possibly somewhat better but the ear canal remains very small (not completely closed as before)with no encrustations.
In all other respects she seems fine. Her feathers look great and she seems happy. Does this sound like the correct treatment for what appears to be an ear
infection? Do you think that the blow to the head could have precipitated the ear infection?
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
Lots to talk about here, but challenges in detail are a real issue without actually physically evaluating the patient in question.Ear infections, overall, are comparatively uncommon in parrots. It is possible that the traumatic injury could have predisposed to this problem. In reality, there is no cytologic evaluation, culture information or factual solid confirmation of the presumption of infection here. Crusty material can accumulate in the ear canals when there is inadequate vitamin A in the diet, when foreign material gets into the ear, when secondary infection gets rolling, and secondary to trauma and even clots of blood accumulating in the area.
Enrofloxacin is a very broad spectrum antibiotic. There is no long term adverse effects with this drug's use on the liver of parrots that is known. Water-based medication with this antibiotic in macaw species has only been published in the red-shouldered macaw (ara nobilis). (J Avian Med Surg, December 200; 286-290, 19 refs). In this study, it was shown that 200 mg/liter of water was effective at maintaining plasma concentrations, which would/should only be helpful for known and susceptible bacterial infections. I do not know what concentration is being achieved at 4 drops per 100 ml of water for your bird.
What I would suggest is that your original veterinarian be asked to have a look at the bird and its ears carefully, possibly even with magnification. Retained material in the ears should be carefully removed, and possible bacterial culture samples taken from this area. At the same time, a careful oral examination is appropriate, as it is possible that the ear abnormalities are the result of more significant soft tissue trauma and skull boney damage.
filed under: Health and Nutrition
I am extremely worried about one of my masked Lovebirds, Pipsqueak who will be 8 years old on 10th October. Earlier this year she started to breath
quickly and deeply but with no real tail bobbing. A course of Batryl made no difference. In herself she is well eating well interacting with her
friends and above all spending alot of time out with me. My excelent Avian Vet Dr Alex Maute of Southbeech Veterinary Surgery in Essex then tried her
on a diuretic, no change. We then took the risk of anesthetic to do x rays and bloods and other than the slightest possibility of enlargement to the
liver, nothing. He then treated her for Aspergillosis with Itrafungol and also milk thistle, again no change. After flying around she breathes more
heavily and tends to have a sleep but otherwise in herself she still appears to be well. However the closesness that I have with her, indeed I
rferer to her as my child, causes me to know that all is not well. She has an excelent diet and living conditions. Please can you help as I am
desperate not to loose her, if neccessary I will take her anywhere in the country if you think that someone could help.
quickly and deeply but with no real tail bobbing. A course of Batryl made no difference. In herself she is well eating well interacting with her
friends and above all spending alot of time out with me. My excelent Avian Vet Dr Alex Maute of Southbeech Veterinary Surgery in Essex then tried her
on a diuretic, no change. We then took the risk of anesthetic to do x rays and bloods and other than the slightest possibility of enlargement to the
liver, nothing. He then treated her for Aspergillosis with Itrafungol and also milk thistle, again no change. After flying around she breathes more
heavily and tends to have a sleep but otherwise in herself she still appears to be well. However the closesness that I have with her, indeed I
rferer to her as my child, causes me to know that all is not well. She has an excelent diet and living conditions. Please can you help as I am
desperate not to loose her, if neccessary I will take her anywhere in the country if you think that someone could help.
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
This is not an easy set of questions to answer, unfortunately. What you really need to get established as soon as possible for your ill lovebird is a succinct diagnosis and clear treatment intervention plan. For the most part, what you seem to have here is at best some presumptive diagnoses, and quit a bit of symptomatic treatments being delivered.You may ask your veterinarian for a referral to an established specialist in avian medicine and surgery, to try to help you best get to the root of things as soon as possible. One option to consider for you would be at least a phone call to a colleague of mine in Swindon-Wilts, UK. His name is Dr Neil Forbes, and the telephone number there is 44-1793-603800. As an established diplomate in the European College of Avian Medicine and Surgery (ECAMS), Neil should be able to help guide you and/or your local veterinarian towards some diagnostic answers.
Best of luck for you and your bird!
filed under: Health and Nutrition
The red front macaw is becoming more and more popular in captivity yet there is little information on them whether it be in books or the internet....I am aware a Hyacinth macaw has a different diet than other macaws but what about the red front??? Since they really have'nt been around as long as the Greenwing, Blue & Gold, etc etc does anyone really know if they require a different diet than the others???
I wish someone with years of experience with them would sit and share the information they have obtained throughout the years including diet, personality, etc etc...I have had Sara for little over 2 years now and she is just a joy...
I wish someone with years of experience with them would sit and share the information they have obtained throughout the years including diet, personality, etc etc...I have had Sara for little over 2 years now and she is just a joy...
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
In a pet bird setting, there really should not be any specific dietary requirements for the red fronted macaw, Ara rubrogenys. A base diet of a commercial formulated product, some degree of controlled seed intake, and fresh vegetables should serve as your foundation.As you get to know your bird, there will be many behaviors that will be individually and possibly species-specific that you will come to know. Probably most importantly, sound husbandry, training and behaivoral guidance and some degree of preventative health management will be important to make sure to have in place.
filed under: Health and Nutrition
I have a 28yr old Red Lored Amazon, could be wild caught we don't know for sure. His weight fluctuates as much as 30-40g per year. Is this normal? He is currently coming off of being hormonal and molting although not heavily and his appetite is not as good as previous times of the year. I realize coming out of breeding season that his body is telling him not to eat as much, but the vet feels his ideal weight is 500g and he is currently at 470-485g depending on what he ate the day before.
I have read but don't remember where, that wild caught birds tend to be more on the lean side in captivity than their handfed counterparts, is this true? He has been at this weight before but I don't remember if it was after breeding season and during a molt. He was just at the vet 2 weeks ago for his yearly checkup and everything was fine, phosphorous was slightly low but everything else was in normal range. 30g grams just seems like a big weight shift to me and I'm concerned. He is acting normal and playing and preening as usual so maybe I'm worried for nothing. Just wondering if this is part of the normal cycle for amazons, my other two birds, nanday and lovebird do not shift weight like this during the year? Thanks so much.
Janna
I have read but don't remember where, that wild caught birds tend to be more on the lean side in captivity than their handfed counterparts, is this true? He has been at this weight before but I don't remember if it was after breeding season and during a molt. He was just at the vet 2 weeks ago for his yearly checkup and everything was fine, phosphorous was slightly low but everything else was in normal range. 30g grams just seems like a big weight shift to me and I'm concerned. He is acting normal and playing and preening as usual so maybe I'm worried for nothing. Just wondering if this is part of the normal cycle for amazons, my other two birds, nanday and lovebird do not shift weight like this during the year? Thanks so much.
Janna
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
Fluctuation of more than 5% of body weight is not typical. Most often, gains in weight will be related to increases in muscle mass (improved physical conditioning) or fat.Realistically, your bird's optimal weight would be that weight where the bird has good and even pectoral muscle mass present, and no apparent subcutaneous fat present at the abdomen or lateral flank skin regions. If you were to dampen the feathers in this area with isopropyl alcohol, you can see the skin very clearly for evaluaton.
Breeding season and hormonal cyclicity for the most part in parrots is strongly influenced by the environment, most of which we have control over. Dietary caloric intake is a strong reproductive stimulus for many parrots - and I am a bit suspicious that the hormonal cyclicity in part is being influenced in your bird by total calories being consumed or made available per day.
Most of the Red Lored Amazons in our database that were not obese seemed to range from 390-450 grams or so, and most of the birds that were 500 grams or over had the clinical observation of fat present and a diagnosis to some degree of obesity noted. Although your individual bird may be larger than most, and may actually be just a big guy - I am a bit suspicious that he may be overweight.
filed under: Health and Nutrition
I am perplexed and very worried for one of my 5 Yellow-headed amazons. Four are 26 years old, and one (female, Gitana) is now about 14 years old. A couple of winters ago Gitana started pulling her feathers frantically and demonstrating that she was experiencing intense itchiness with flicking feathers, twitching, and squirming. I brought her to my avian vet and had many tests done, with no diagnostic results. The vet prescribed antibiotics, fungals and Benedryl anyway in hopes of relieving her symptoms, which I gave for several months, with no improvement. Eventually she was featherless, except for her head, tail and wings. She was clearly in pain as she pulled, and cried out. Her skin was to the point of bloodiness in a few places from all of her over-preening.
When spring arrived, her problems diminished, feathers grew back, and she and I felt great relief. Eventually, I figured that even though my house is relatively humid (by dry winter heat in Minnesota standards) that she had been suffering from dry conditions and dry skin.
Last winter I bought a humidifier, and she did very minimal feather destruction. I kept the humidity at around 35 - 50%. I started paying attention to the dryness of my own sinuses and nose and if I noticed discomfort, I increased the house humidity.
Living conditions:
My amazons get a lot of fresh food, mostly organic. In summer, they get many just picked fresh veggies that I grow in my organic garden. Some protein... usually a small amount of lightly cooked egg with a lot of veggies mixed in, or a couple of nuts or a small touch of cheese. Rarely, they get a small taste of a chip (salt rinsed off) or a little taste of toast with peanut butter. Evenings, they get a couple of teaspoons of mixed seeds (including fresh refrigerated flax seeds), organic human grade, purchased from a co-op, plus each gets 5 Harrison's pellets. Then a small (one TBSP) piece of fruit. Filtered water, flying exercise everyday. Large stainless steel cages. In the summer, I try to get them outside at least once a week, and they get hose, full-drench baths. (In the winter they get spray bottle baths).
Gitana lives and shares a cage with a male YH, Jake, who has always been very kind to her. No signs of any problem with him. Though I formerly bred my small flock of YHs, I have not provided nest boxes since 1999. Gitana has a difficult early history, as she was bred in captivity and lived with a mentally and chemically challenged woman for the first four years of he life. She came to our flock after another female died. Gitana was too young to be involved during the years that I bred them, so she has never had chicks.
Summer in Minnesota has been very warm and humid this year. I very rarely run my central air though, preferring open windows and fans whenever possible. So I was very unpleasantly surprised to find Gitana extremely itchy again this week, and wildly picking at her feathers, belly, back and legs are bare. She is trying to get out of her skin... flicking, jerking, picking, looking very tired from the stress. She stresses and picks even when all of the others are fast asleep for the night. Cages get covered for night by dark colored sheets (old and very well washed with eco-friendly soap, line dried).
The only thing that I can recall that has changed in her diet is that I ran out of flax a couple of weeks ago, and did not buy more until yesterday. I also bought hemp oil and have put a small drop on each of their five pellets. This is just the second day, so I still have hope that these essential fatty acids will help, though so far, she is not improving and I am so worried and feel so bad for her because of her extreme discomfort. I hope that you can offer some very quick ideas and help this lovely bird who is suffering so.
If it's an allergy, I just don't know what to think. Much of the seasonal food she's been getting now... organic plums, grapes, tomatoes, beans... garden stuff, she was probably not getting when this occurred last time, in winter. Other foods are not new. This is an acute reaction... she was pretty happy one day and frantic the next. I think that I will withhold peanuts, because they MAY have varying levels of aflatoxin, though I buy nuts from the Wedge Co-op, which is probably the best source. I wish that I were one of those really organized (OCD!) record keeping types and knew exactly what she had eaten for the last few years, but I am not.
I am giving her a lot of baths, but with no feathers, she shivers so easily, so I have her and Jake in a small cage outside today and yesterday because the air is on inside when we're in the mid nineties or above. The outside temp is 93 today, well within their normal habitat range.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated! Marie
When spring arrived, her problems diminished, feathers grew back, and she and I felt great relief. Eventually, I figured that even though my house is relatively humid (by dry winter heat in Minnesota standards) that she had been suffering from dry conditions and dry skin.
Last winter I bought a humidifier, and she did very minimal feather destruction. I kept the humidity at around 35 - 50%. I started paying attention to the dryness of my own sinuses and nose and if I noticed discomfort, I increased the house humidity.
Living conditions:
My amazons get a lot of fresh food, mostly organic. In summer, they get many just picked fresh veggies that I grow in my organic garden. Some protein... usually a small amount of lightly cooked egg with a lot of veggies mixed in, or a couple of nuts or a small touch of cheese. Rarely, they get a small taste of a chip (salt rinsed off) or a little taste of toast with peanut butter. Evenings, they get a couple of teaspoons of mixed seeds (including fresh refrigerated flax seeds), organic human grade, purchased from a co-op, plus each gets 5 Harrison's pellets. Then a small (one TBSP) piece of fruit. Filtered water, flying exercise everyday. Large stainless steel cages. In the summer, I try to get them outside at least once a week, and they get hose, full-drench baths. (In the winter they get spray bottle baths).
Gitana lives and shares a cage with a male YH, Jake, who has always been very kind to her. No signs of any problem with him. Though I formerly bred my small flock of YHs, I have not provided nest boxes since 1999. Gitana has a difficult early history, as she was bred in captivity and lived with a mentally and chemically challenged woman for the first four years of he life. She came to our flock after another female died. Gitana was too young to be involved during the years that I bred them, so she has never had chicks.
Summer in Minnesota has been very warm and humid this year. I very rarely run my central air though, preferring open windows and fans whenever possible. So I was very unpleasantly surprised to find Gitana extremely itchy again this week, and wildly picking at her feathers, belly, back and legs are bare. She is trying to get out of her skin... flicking, jerking, picking, looking very tired from the stress. She stresses and picks even when all of the others are fast asleep for the night. Cages get covered for night by dark colored sheets (old and very well washed with eco-friendly soap, line dried).
The only thing that I can recall that has changed in her diet is that I ran out of flax a couple of weeks ago, and did not buy more until yesterday. I also bought hemp oil and have put a small drop on each of their five pellets. This is just the second day, so I still have hope that these essential fatty acids will help, though so far, she is not improving and I am so worried and feel so bad for her because of her extreme discomfort. I hope that you can offer some very quick ideas and help this lovely bird who is suffering so.
If it's an allergy, I just don't know what to think. Much of the seasonal food she's been getting now... organic plums, grapes, tomatoes, beans... garden stuff, she was probably not getting when this occurred last time, in winter. Other foods are not new. This is an acute reaction... she was pretty happy one day and frantic the next. I think that I will withhold peanuts, because they MAY have varying levels of aflatoxin, though I buy nuts from the Wedge Co-op, which is probably the best source. I wish that I were one of those really organized (OCD!) record keeping types and knew exactly what she had eaten for the last few years, but I am not.
I am giving her a lot of baths, but with no feathers, she shivers so easily, so I have her and Jake in a small cage outside today and yesterday because the air is on inside when we're in the mid nineties or above. The outside temp is 93 today, well within their normal habitat range.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated! Marie
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
Your question and dilemma is not an uncommon one, and challenging to help you easily with. Most importantly, I would really strongly suggest that your bird needs to be evaluated by an experienced and qualified veterinarian for a more accurate diagnosis of this problem and careful charting of a combined behavioral and medical intervention plan. There will be no simple or quick answers. Sometimes, skin biopsies are very appropriate to obtain in such intensely itchy patients from a diagnostic point of view. I'd caution against seeking symptomatic treatments (typically fail in the long run and allow the problem to become more chronic and refractory), but would more guide you towards a most optimal and more complete intervention plan.filed under: Health and Nutrition
I have a 35 yr old male yellow-naped amazon that was wild caught. I live on the SF Bay peninsula so you are familiar with the climate. For many years he has had a chronic case of sinusitus. From about 8 years ago, the best advice from my avian vet has been to keep his nares/face misted with clean water several times daily. In general the misting has improved the sinus condition, but not eliminated occasional bouts of stuffy sounding nose. I also usually take him in the shower with me daily, letting the spray only hit his back for a minute or two, not directly into his face. He much prefers misting to the shower. I've noticed that the shower sometimes precipitates an hour or two of a very clogged sounding sinus, even though he may have been ok before the shower.
My question is, should I be doing anything else for his sinus condition, and is the shower time beneficial, or should I just mist him? Aside from the stuffy-sounding nose on occasion, his health is good, he gets out and flys daily, eats Harrisons and vegetables, and his latest blood tests were normal. Thank you for your advice.
My question is, should I be doing anything else for his sinus condition, and is the shower time beneficial, or should I just mist him? Aside from the stuffy-sounding nose on occasion, his health is good, he gets out and flys daily, eats Harrisons and vegetables, and his latest blood tests were normal. Thank you for your advice.
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
Sinusitis, technically, simply describes inflamed sinuses. This general description could apply to infections (primary or secondary), allergic issues, inhaled irritants, environmental irritants, foreign bodies, or even tumors in some circumstances. So, a working diagnosis of sinusitis, in my mind's eye, would be merely a symptom of some sort of primary etiology that may be in need of identification.In the absence of the specific details of your bird's medical case, it would be challenging to provide accurate advice here. In general, should a set of persistent clinical signs remain present in a patient, it is fair to consider revisiting the nature of and accuracy of the diagnosis, seeking hopefully a bit more information with which to guide more definitive treatment(s).
The diet you describe sounds good, and it is good to know that you have established sound basic health information recently. Most sinus problems, even infections, however, do not reflect systemically in a blood test type of workup alone.
filed under: Health and Nutrition
Hello I have a pair of Buffons Macaws they are a year old the females ear never opened and the male only one ear opened. How common is this in macaws and what needs to be done with this problem? What should be done with this problem in baby macaws? Is any one else seeing this?
Answered by Dr. Brian Speer, DVM:
Your question is bringing attention to a problem that is not commonly discussed, but is seen in the large macaws, in pediatric settings. In general, birds that have been stunted or are sub-optimally developed may develop smaller than normal external ear canals. In some circumstances, this may allow for handfeeding materials, keratin or other material to accumulate in the narrow ear canals, potentially setting the stage for secondary infections.In most cases, there should not be specific intervention required, unless there are repeated secondary problems encountered. In the latter case, under careful operating microscopy and using microsurgical technique, the ear canal can be enlarged.
filed under: Health and Nutrition
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