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About Phoebe Green Linden
In 1986, Phoebe married the love of her life, Harry Linden, at the place of her avicultural beginning, the Santa…

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Ask An Expert: Phoebe Green Linden

Browse by category: Parrot Care, Behaviour and Training, Conservation, Ethics and Welfare, Housing and Environmental Enrichment, General, Health and Nutrition

Hi Phoebe, Due to toweling my new young male Eclectus to medicate him, he is now terrified of towels. Is there a way to get him past this fear? He is also bonded to his cage and doesn't want to spend time with me away from his cage. I've taken him to other homes to socialize, but this didn't help. He became bonded to his cage before the medical problem was addressed. He aspirated as a baby and came down with pneumonia and it seems that the stress of coming to a new home triggered symptoms that required medical attention. This cost me over $1300 in vet bills. I haven't told the breeder because I don't think she would believe me. In your opinion should the breeder be held responsible for the illness, and what can I do? Before the 6 weeks of medication the bird was never active and sat in one place until it was apparent to me that he was very sick when food from his crop poured out of his mouth. That day x-rays should very cloudy lungs. He was put on medication for 6 weeks. After a couple of attempts with toweling and medicating him I laced cornbread with his medication instead of further traumatizing him during the time we were supposed to be bonding. When I bought him I noticed that a few of his red feathers contained yellow on both sides of his body. I now believe this is an outward sign that he sustained trauma of aspirating as a baby. It must have been a small amount.

The doctor said it is very common. Having a standoffish bird is not what I had in mind and I don't know what to do about it. Do you have any thoughts about all this? Thank you.

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Kathleen, I’m so sorry for your little guy. He’s been through a lot for being young. Please tell us exactly how old he is and his name, OK?

Even though you have both been through a certain amount of trauma, the good point is that you probably have a solid relationship with an avian vet who can continue to help your parrot maintain good health. Perhaps a person at the vet hospital took a particular interest in him and can now become his babysitter and part of your local support network. All in all, robust health is the key to good relationship and increased activity and will contribute to his desire to explore more territory. Recovery from aspiration depends upon how much air sac tissue was affected so be sure to have him re-checked by your avian vet. The moment he seems down and inactive is the time to have him checked, not later.

Whether or not you confront the breeder with the past events depends on the relationship you have with that person. If you are confident that the result will yield desired results then sure, give a call. However, if you think there will be acrimony and that nothing will come of it, my advice is to concentrate on the here and now with your eclectus and stay in the moment.

Also, aspiration can happen at any time. It could have happened when he was a teeny baby, or in the carrier during transport to your home, or while he was at your house.

Parrots form bonds throughout their lives so its not like you’ve missed one critical bonding period that will never happen again. You did the right thing by getting him healthy when he was sick. When he’s confirmed healthy and active once again, put food bowls at the front of the cage, put some half perches on the cage door and keep the door open as much as possible. Fix it so that he can eat both at the front of the cage or while perching on the open cage door. My eclectus love mega millet and will go for it wherever it hangs—try it to see if it entices him, too.

It’s most important for you to discover what he finds reinforcing, what he does that comforts him, what behaviors he conducts to soothe himself and then acknowledge these. Try to set up the physical and emotional environments to encourage more of these behaviors. Watch him and catch him doing something cute like puffing his feathers, scratching his head with his foot, turning around on his perch, or cocking his head and give those behaviors verbal reinforcement. Key in to what he’s doing by giving him your undivided attention and praise when you see him moving to soothe himself and/or moving towards you. Also, establish a contact whistle or call that you use when you enter the house, his room, his area and use this consistently.

Please check out the following articles which will really help you:
http://www.parrots.org/pdfs/all_about_parrots/reference_library/behaviour_and_environmental_enrichment/Shaping%20New%20Behaviors.pdf

http://www.parrots.org/pdfs/all_about_parrots/reference_library/behaviour_and_environmental_enrichment/Success%20Files.pdf

Remember, we are trying to increase his physical skills and we do this by creating environments where it’s easy for him to do physical behaviors. We want him to gain physical acuity and increase the numbers of observable behaviors he conducts. When he walks or climbs from perch to perch, touches toys, destroys a stalk of mega millet, scratches his head with one foot, then with the other, turns around and fans his tail, rings a bell or whistles when you enter the room, you and he will have fully bonded.

Also, seriously consider purchasing Barbara Heidenreich’s books because they will help you establish an excellent and active relationship with your parrot. Therein, you’ll learn about desensitizing him to towels through the creation of non-threatening learning situations.

Keep us posted, Kathleen.

All best,
Phoebe

filed under: Behaviour and Training

Hi. My Mother-in Law always clips one side of our Amazonian Brown parrot. She says it is to prevent it from flying away. Is this true? Should she stop doing this? Please reply as soon as possible. The parrot is in Trinidad and Tobago. Thank You.

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi and thanks for writing World Parrot Trust. We have seen many types of wing-clips over the years and this "one wing clip" was advocated in the 1970's, but no longer. In our experience, it's best to clip both wings symetrically. That is, take off an equal number and amount of feathers from each wing. This way, the bird can maintain her balance which is beneficial for flapping and climbing. When parrots are given an adequate indoor play area, they can be successful with partial flight, or with full flight, depending on the skill and commitment of the caregivers involved, as well as how well the environment supports flighted parrots. All best, Phoebe Greene Linden Santa Barbara Bird Farm Santa Barbara CA USA

filed under: Parrot Care

My Question: winter feeding of parakeets in unheated outdoor aviary. I live in East Anglia. This winter seems especially harsh. The parakeets have sheltered spots but no indoor housing. 2 ringnecks & one alexandrine hen sleep in nest boxes. The others roost outside concealed in fir tree branches. I feed fresh fruit, birdy bread cooked with vegetables and parakeet seed mix with little sunflowers. I put up wild bird fat balls as well. The parakeets are eating far more seed than in summer. It was suggested that I add more sunflower seed to the mix in cold weather. Category: Parrot Care Requestor Name: Dot Schwarz

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Dot, Thanks for the question. Your parakeets sound healthy and well-acclimated to life outdoors. However, I understand that a particularly harsh winter is cuase for concern. Yes, I'd add more sunflower and safflower to a "winter mix" and also supplement with fresh corn on the cob, slightly cooked. Our psittacula relish corn. They'll also eat other vegetables on cold mornings, especially when served warm -- yams, squash and yellow potatoes. As always, keep a close eye on them and encourage their exercise to maintain good health. All best, Phoebe Linden Santa Barbara Bird Farm

filed under: Parrot Care

We are thinking about building an outdoor aviary for our cockatoos and we live on the coast in Oregon. Is it warm enough to keep them outside year round?

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Thanks for the question and for your intention to get your Cockatoos outside in the fresh air and light. The answer to this question will come through conversation, because the answer is determined by us finding out what's right for your birds.

Before you begin aviary construction, ask your avian veterinarian for an assessment of the physical condition of the birds. Examinations, histories and thorough work-ups will help determine their suitability for year-round outdoor activities. I ask my vet to run the same tests she would run on her own beloved birds if faced with the same decision. Then, we analyze the results together. I hope you have a similarly supportive avian vet or that you will cultivate such a relationship as soon as possible for the welfare of your parrots. Perhaps your avian vet already knows your birds and people who have outdoor flights in your area. If you can network with local aviculturists or companion caregivers, their trials and triumphs might be pertinent to the process you follow and the goals you achieve.

We have our Cockatoos outside all year around but central coast CA (3 miles up in the mountains from the coast) is different than Oregon. We enjoy watching them hang upside down in sunlight -- crests ablaze, wings out and flapping, they show us luminous colors in full movement. Our Cockatoos have aviaries that are covered on three sides in the back (4'), uncovered wire in the center (14') and roofed in the front (2') by the feeding stations. They are long-term outdoor birds in excellent health; daily watchful caregivers are alert to their feeding, preening and activity levels for all times of day and night; perches are correctly sized; enrichments are placed to encourage activity and also to allow for privacy if desired. However, we know that the art of aviary design continues, as does the science.

I knew my Galerita elenora Josserlynn was perfectly healthy when I put her in a flight about 10 years ago. A flyer since fledging, Joss immediately loved her new bigger space outside. Still, I checked her on her first cold nights night by touching the foot she perched on -- it was cold. Then I touched the foot her held against her downy chest -- warm as toast. She switched feet: the cold one went up, the warm one down. She was and is fine.

Katy McElroy lives in Ohio and keeps her Cockatoos in a combination indoor/outdoor aviary. The indoors is a cinderblock building heated to 33F in the winter, so the water bowls don't freeze. The doorway to outside is one missing brick. Through this small portal, the 'Toos enter gloriously large and well-perched outdoor flight. I've seen footage of her Cockatoos chewing away at ice-covered perches, and flying in the snow. Importantly, 1) these birds are in amazingly wonderful physical condition and 2) at all times they can choose whether to be inside or outside.

Steve, be sure your birds are physically capable of withstanding its fluctuations. Additionally, you'll want to watch them carefully so you can postiviely reinforce them when they explore their new habitat. Keep the final perch design flexible -- they will show and tell you what they like and how they like it. In an aviary, the larger the better, we can provision our birds with spaces that encourage positive activities such as foraging, swinging, flying, bathing, interaction, privacy and goofing off. An aviary safe from predators that provides escape from harsh weather, access to nice weather, a place where humans and parrots are comfortable as they flock together for meals, playtime, singing and hanging out -- this is the aviary to build.

All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden

filed under: Parrot Care

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