Ask An Expert: Phoebe Green Linden

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Bruce, We are so excited to get in on the flight action with you, Gizmo and Einstein. Bonnet (one of my wonderful avian companions) and I are also amidst flight explorations and we, like you, have had our share of lucky-and-we-don’t-want-to-push-it experiences with parrots in flight in the house. So, we're with you and we'll be ready to fly in a moment.

First, good question on the pans. In order to keep it simple, I stay with stainless and well-seasoned cast iron pieces, then abide by simple reminders: use veggies and olive oil, avoid overcooking, and ventilate for clean cooking and air that's parrot-healthy.

Our first question is for Gizmo, as in what's up with the not flying very much, buddy? We've seen your cousins zoom around like gleaming banners crossing paths in mid-air and landing fast in order to turn tummy to sky for Sun Conuring. Bruce, as the human, you probably need to check in with Giz to see what kind of physical activities he’d like to check out to further his psittacine-physicality. Maybe Gizmo likes stretching – what is his full range of motion? – or big flapping hops from this cool place to a new cool parrot place. Bonnet says, think flock habitat expansion, Bruce – parrots love habitat. Set up a great place for Gizmo to do his wing-beats and let’s see what happens.

Einstein is indeed a genius and you must be super excited to be sharing space and consciousness with such an amazing parrot. Do you know that “Hanh's” stands for “His Honor”? I just made that up, but it seems right, doesn't it? Anyway, an Ibis flying across one's fields of vision is a flap-worthy event, so Einstein was acting like a parrot when he took off in response. The wall is the problem, not Einstein's wings. Bonnet wants to know, will you knock out the wall when you build the aviary?

In the meantime, survey the habitat as if from Einstein's point of view, taking in to consideration the picture window and its often still-except-when-moving, sometimes surprising, views. As you see what he sees, wait a while, fit into that habitat, relax and try it on for size, Hahn's size. Some changes to Einstein and Gizmo’s environments will be obvious, and those you should make right away. Others will reveal themselves over time and yet others will be inspired by their increasing athleticism.

Bonnet and I also enjoy quiet moments together in front of windows especially when she gets to show me something humans might otherwise miss. You and Einstein can together experience lots of different interesting views, so put some time into looking.

Additionally, create more and more suitable parrot-specific landing places for your budding athletes. Table-top perches, a weighted basket on top of the refrigerator, a trusty chair back – all are great. Bolt-worthy events will happen. When you and your parrots are all comfortable that there’s a variety of safe landing spaces that all competently access, flight is no longer twisted with fright.
Bruce, have you watched PollyVision with your parrots? If not, we recommend it!! Here we see parrots really flying and acting like parrots and here we get our best decorating tips, too.

All best, Phoebe and Bonnet

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Arlene, Thanks for writing WPT and welcome to our “Ask the Expert” feature. I’m delighted to read about your loving concern for Pickle, a mature highly interactive female dusky-headed conure, Aratinga weddellii, and glad that she went to the vet. I presume that she is healthy in every regard. Also, some eggs are palpable only right before they are laid, so Pickle could still have one or more eggs in process.

All of Pickle's time inside "precious" is, indeed, precious to her because it gives her the chance to behave like a biologically real parrot. Now that the days are getting longer, her efforts will undoubtedly increase. It’s not too weird that she changed her preference from one drawer to another. Based on observations of the wild Amazon parrots of Santa Barbara (http://www.santabarbarabirdfarm.com), we see parrots religiously work a particular nest site only to abandon it for another. Perhaps a disturbance encouraged Pickle to move – perhaps you "cleaned out" the first drawer –- or perhaps Pickle was ready for something new.

Either way, it’s not unusual for a fixed-up site to be abandoned and sometimes that ends the laying right then. Other times, a new site is selected and a new remodel begins. We use this abandon-one-site and select-another-site propensity to divert companions from laying or to slow down excessive laying.

At 17, Pickle is definitely biologically mature, but like many mature psittacines, she has not yet laid eggs. However, with time and access to a viable nest, it’s not surprising that she’s exhibiting what we humans call “nesting behaviors.” Parrots might call these "shredding fun stuff in a cozy places" behaviors because not all parrots who build nests end up laying eggs. They just like making places.

For instance, our flock comprises two proven pair of African Grey parrots (Psittacus erithacus). They are retired, so they no longer produce or incubate eggs or raise chicks, processes that formerly took up most of their time. In retirement, they’ve discovered new hobbies and because they have ground in which to dig, and neighbors who do the same, the two pairs dig and dig and dig every day. They also shred pine, deforest millet, destroy banana bark and pulverize cotton rope toys. Every day, they make elaborate soups, and every evening they practice solos, duets and quartets. They make big messes, talk about everything a lot, have sex whenever they feel like it, feed each other and, after a full day, snuggle on perches that afford them ease and privacy. The removal of their nest boxes disallowed eggs and parenting behaviors, but alternate behaviors are greatly increased.

A great way to focus Pickle’s attention towards non-reproductive place-making would be to offer her a variety of places to explore and various substrates to pulverize. If you don’t want her to go all the way through laying, you might be able to non-stressfully change the environment in ways that she values so that egg-laying becomes ho-hum compared with what’s new. However, it might also be too late in her cycle this time around for this level of diversion, so we’ll discuss what to do if she lays, below. In the meantime, think about making some future places for Pickle that are conducive to shredding and privacy, but not necessarily laying.

Additionally, not all parrots who lay eggs incubate them. Pickle might lay a nice little clutch only to be done with it. In all cases, your companionship with her need not change except to deepen.
Parrots like Cella, (Eclectus roratus vosmaeri) seek a nest, make it nice, lay eggs and incubate them but give up the eggs when don’t hatch. Pickle could do the same. Therefore, an element of "wait and see" accompanies this new phase of Pickle’s behaviors and your reactions to them.

Generally, psittacine hens lay eggs at 24 hour intervals until their clutch is complete. Conures lay between 2 – 5 eggs per clutch, sometimes more. Incubation begins when the last egg is laid and for conures occurs over 21-23 days.(Clinical Avian Medicine and Surgery, Harrison and Harrison, Appendix 5 by K. Flammer, pg 663.)

Another consideration is Pickle’s overall athleticism. Please be sure Pickle regularly exercises because we know that parrots who are in good shape are better equipped to lay eggs than over-weight, under-nourished or sedentary birds. Therefore, when she’s not nesting, encourage Pickle to fly if she’s flighted. Or to flap, climb, run and walk if she’s not flighted. I bet she’s happy to run to precious, for instance.

Regardless of whether or not Pickle lays, your relationship with her can and should continue to grow and deepen. In fact, now that she’s shown you her new talent for place-making, you can get creative. That’s what Cella and I have discovered.

Cella, mentioned above, is 24 and incubates 2-3 clutches a year. When she’s incubating her eggs, I ask her to fly or run back to her nest because other than digging and shredding, she doesn’t get much
exercise during egg time. When she’s not nesting, she exercises more which we both enjoy. Her privacy box is a cardboard box fashioned to her liking and suspended in her large macaw-sized cage; she incubates each clutch, during which she thoroughly attends the eggs, cooing and clucking with absorptive attention. After about 32 days, she leaves the box and ignores the eggs, so I remove all in order to give Cella a break from nesting, which lasts a few months, and all is well.

During the break, Cella exercises, takes lots showers, chews up stalks and stalks of millet and is in every way a delight. Until it’s time to do the place-making again. When the break is over and she wants another box, Cella starts pacing inside her cage. Outside it, she intently seeks out any dark place in which to scratch and hide. She’s been known to scurry and freeze deep inside the pantry, run out of reach behind cabinets and hide silently underneath the dishwasher.

As soon as Cella gets a new parrot-appropriate box – even if she cannot immediately get inside it – she stops pacing and hiding and becomes intent on place-making. When I say the box is fashioned to Cella’s liking, that’s partly true because some of the box is fashioned to ensure her health and safety. Because Pickle and Cella do not get to experience feeding and caring for chicks, which takes 10 - 12 weeks, they might cycle before their calcium and other supplies adequately replenish. Too many eggs can deplete them. So, if Cella starts signaling that she wants a box too soon after finishing the last clutch, or by the year’s third clutch, I make a box that challenges her. It might have a really teensy entry hole (1/2”) through which she’ll peer before she chews it large enough for entry. Plus once she makes the hole, she finds the box stuffed with materials that need to be shredded and excavated. Then again, just as in the wild, some disturbance might occur with that site (think big storm, high winds) that necessitates Cella starting again with another – imagine this – even better site.

If you want Pickle to continue in the dresser, you can make that site more challenging for her to access and more creative once she gets there. For instance, will she climb a ladder to get to precious or go through a parrot-friendly agility course? The more action-packed, the more Pickle-appropriate materials that surround this series of events, the more creative your shared flock environment becomes. Of course, if she lays and incubates, the flock will ensure she has a serene and stable environment with plenty of flock attention. Until, that is, she’s ready for something new.

All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hello Anne, First, please accept my heartfelt condolences for the recent loss of your husband. You are in a season of profound feelings.

I can tell from your letter that you care deeply about Lulu and her legacy, so it’s important to get this relationship, and decisions about it, right. Thank you so much for asking for my comments; I’m honored to help you and Lulu honor the memory of your husband and Lulu’s great friend.

You and Lulu have been through a lot with each other, in sickness and in health, as it’s said. Your shared history will deepen your relationship, and, as long as you’re willing to keep investing in it, you and Lulu can develop a great companionship.

I could be wrong, but something tells me your husband’s two favorites can make a go of it. Let’s consider how you and Lulu are already compatible: she already goes on your arm readily, you have some nice routines established, and it seems like you enjoy being together, so you have a lot to work with. You’ve been through rough times, but you’re ready to learn, and you want to stay together.

My 13 yr old Blue and Gold macaw, Georgia, says “Go for it!” I agree – let’s get started! We are going to approach your situation using both behavioral analysis and emotional intelligence.

Kick Back, Watch a DVD
First, please order PollyVision I and II and watch the DVD’s yourself first, then with Lulu. Note the behaviors of the wild parrots and note which ones she already does. Have her watch it, too, if and when you are both ready to watch. When we see those wild macaws doing what they do, it makes us stop and think, and it makes us want to get active, too, to change, enhance, and build habitats that encourage parrots to act more and more like real birds. I think it’s really important that our parrots are first parrots, meaning that they flap, climb, swing, talk, preen, interact, hang out and goof off; then, together, we are companions.

What Does Lulu Want?
So, consider some new enhancements for Lulu – check her favorite toy and see if it’s time to order more; be sure the places you put her are designed for her comfort, and with her values, in mind, not ours. Our macaws really like their get-a-grips from WPT supporter Star Bird; they also love the bamboolies from this same line. Between those two enrichments, hours of enjoyment. Giving Lulu a new place to hang out – especially if it’s a place she really, really likes, will signal the beginning of a new relationship. http://www.parrots.org/estore/catalogue/Page8-9_Natural%20Toys.pdf.

Make a list of treats Lulu likes, such as walnut, almond, wheat toast with a smudge of peanut butter, warm corn bread, cracker and withhold these except for as a reward for going into the cage. No more free treats! To start, use pieces that are about ½” x ½”, but keep experimenting with size so that you give the most appropriate amount.

One really great “fact” is that when Lulu does “parrot stuff” (which looks a lot like showing off, being pretty, preening/posing, having a fluff head, etc.,) she’s automatically reinforced. Humans like these behaviors, too. Remember, Lulu is happy to be beautiful and your admiration of her can be genuine, gentle, appropriate and meaningful. When we like and encourage the behaviors she already wants to perform, then we’re working like a team. Or better, like a flock. Lulu will like your praise and as you notice her more and more, you’ll appreciate her more and more.

To Build Compatibility, Note What’s Incompatible
Let’s think for a moment about behaviors that are incompatible with biting. Meaning, if Lulu is doing xyz she is in no position to bite. Behaviors that are incompatible with biting include preening, waving, turning around, turning around and fanning the tail, scratching the head with one foot, then with the other, doing an arabesque and fluff and puff, to name some. When Lulu does any one of these behaviors, it’s physically impossible for her to also be biting. So, you want to catch her doing these behaviors and give her a treat or praise so that these behaviors increase and biting falls away. There are so many things Lulu probably already does that have nothing to do with biting! It’s your great assignment, Anne, to note these and find the reinforcement she wants that leads to more performances of behaviors incompatible with biting.

Approach Lulu and see what she wants to do, if anything, with you at a particular time. She might want breakfast with you, maybe not. Some other time, then. No biggie. If she doesn’t want juice now, maybe later. It’s not a big deal to you (except you know how yummy juice is. . . ) and she’ll probably want it tomorrow, anyway. Maybe she wants to flip her wings, fan her tail, scratch her head or whistle: those are all cool parrot behaviors, so praise her for what she’s doing that’s right.

The Cage as a Treat Delivery Station
Because you’ve isolated the “problem area” to be Lulu’s cage, you’ve given us a terrific tool with which to work. Sounds like Lulu has started to view “going back into the cage time” as an arbitrary decision based on human convenience. One that makes her march to orders and then get jailed as a result. Who wouldn’t rebel?
Instead, let’s construct circumstances in which Lulu goes from out of her cage to inside her cage and back out again, then in again, etc., according to a mutual agreement between you. It’s important for Lulu to be her own agent and participate in decisions. When possible, let her come right back out of the cage after she’s decided to go in it, or after you’ve asked her to go in and she does.

Once she knows that every trip into the cage does not result in solitary confinement, she’ll be more willing to go there and happier to go on her own.
Here’s what you can do: If Lulu is hanging out on her cage, see what she wants to do like puff or whistle or look cute. Select behaviors incompatible with biting, watch for those, and get ready. Tell her what she’s doing that you love and put a tiny bit of walnut or corn bread or toast in her food dish inside the cage. If she doesn’t go down right away and eat it, you know she will later because a) she hasn’t had any treats for a while and b) because she’s a macaw. If she goes down right away and eats it, that’s a good bird, too. Then she can come right back out of the cage if she wants to. That’s one session. Everybody should be happy – she’s gotten a treat, you’ve seen her go into her cage, she’s practiced a very good skill.

In the next session, check the treat cup. If there’s still a treat in the cup, you’ll know it’s not reinforcing enough for her either because she’s not hungry, or because she values something else. If she’s just not hungry right now, don’t worry – she’ll get there, especially for nuts. Now, talk quietly together and wait for her to do something praiseworthy. Immediately put another treat in the cup (not too big, not too small – she needs to be motivated for the treat). Let her practice going into the cage for a treat, then coming out (or not) on her own. Then going back in later for more treats.
My parrots have different treat preferences which they change according to a secret schedule, so they inspire me to be creative. One day it’s cracker, the next it’s black berries, then again, maybe it’s rice.

Also, build some leeway into your schedule and the training situations. For instance, if you have to leave the house at 5:00 PM and she’s still out at 4:59, that’s a planning problem. Instead, at 2 or 3 PM, give her a treat in her cup, have her either go get it on her own right away, or wait for a while. Perhaps she’ll want you to put her in the cage after all (whichever she decides). Then gently close the cage door with a compliment to her manners and put a bunch of walnut pieces in the cage, just because. Set up the cage situation so that Lulu wants to go back into it; comes and goes from the cage as is reasonable and safe; and views the cage as a treat-delivery station.

Random Acts of Cuteness
Additionally, you’ll want to keep noting behaviors that are incompatible with biting, like, say, scratching the head, and be sure you’re either dropping a treat in her cup, or giving her something else she values (like a head ruff) in response to random acts of cuteness.

Anne, I know you want to keep Lulu. And just as important, you want her to be happy. I’m sure that a few skills will help you develop a relationship with Lulu that goes beyond just living together. Please keep writing me, OK? I think it will be interesting for WPT members to read an ongoing discussion rather than just a one-time Q & A. so if that’s something that appeals to you, let’s try it!
All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden
Santa Barbara Bird Farm

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Miriam, Thanks for writing World Parrot Trust and explaining the situation with Nico, your 21 month old African Grey parrot.

All the behaviors you describe are within the bounds of normalcy for parrots young and old. Making some noise? Yep. Trying to get your attention? For sure. Pushing boundaries? If you mean by that exploring what works and what doesn’t, yes, he’ll do that.

Parrots who push their boundaries too vehemently might be too confined. Better for us if we safely and reasonably push back the boundaries we've set for our birds as we train them every step of the way. We allocate space, time and resources to be sure our captive parrots don’t need to ache, beg for or bite to get what they need and want.

If, for example, he wants your undivided attention and gets it when he's "trying to bite," then he'll try to bite more.

Miriam, my advice on puberty is this: don't let thoughts on "puberty" pigeon hole your Grey. We don't want to waste valuable fleeting time with our parrots when so many bright activities and interactions are before us.

He's ready to be taught solutions to any problems, and because the solutions exist, let's get going.

Training by the Book

In Good Bird! author and trainer Barbara Heidenreich reminds us that positive reinforcement works, which is excellent news. So, pick a treat that Nico likes and use it (ultra-small bits of it) for positive reinforcement. If he becomes disinterested in one treat, have substitutes available, including verbal praise, a whistle, tickle or whatever Nico likes. It can not be said enough that the treat has to be something that Nico likes, he has to be ready to receive it. At almost two, he might change his mind tomorrow and like something else, so be prepared!

Hopefully, you'll start to get a long list of things that Nico likes to do, eat or get. Sensitivity and reason will guide you. Also, let the booklet Good Bird! guide you. A copy is coming to you via WPT from me. You can read it through in one evening and start Nico's training off on the firmest footing. Then, if ever you feel "stuck" again, you'll have it for reference. It's invaluable, just like Nico.

Miriam, because you wrote to World Parrot Trust, I know your goal is to avoid doing anything to make Nico event the slightest bit uneasy. Nothing that harms the relationship, and everything that is good for relationship -- that is the goal. The result is a relationship between you and Nico that is built upon mutual trust.

The best way for humans to build trust with parrots is for us to get to know them physically. That's why being able to read parrots' body language is important. It's both art and science as I'm sure you and Nico have already discovered. But there’s more -- the ways parrots use feathers to express their state of being are myriad and deserve more commentary than this space allows, so please refer to the booklet once it arrives, OK?

One behavior, the rouse, is "when a bird puffs all of it's feathers out and then shakes all of its feathers." (p.15) is one of my favorites to reinforce. We call this "fluff and puff" and it gets a lot of praise in my flock. It seems calming and cleansing, like a tension relief behavior.

Emotional Intelligence: parrots’ point of view

Miriam, another way we get to know our parrots is emotionally, so be sure your interactions with Nico center around a compassionate emotional intelligence that guides you as you constantly upgrade the environments in which Nico’s behaviors occur. Positive relationships center around environments that encourage him to be physically active and engaged. Reward him when he makes pleasant noises and be sure those sounds come from a toned, fit and healthy body. Always be on the look-out to ensure that he's staying happily receptive to the rewards offered. If he changes his mind, be nimble.

Throughout training, Nico's point of view might be very different from human perceptions, so extra sensitivity is needed as together, you mold a relationship between companionable species. It's a gentle, pliable community we build, not a clamshell of demands that we clap tightly onto each other's beings.

Praise can be a enthusiastic “Good Bird!!” or a smiling nod – as long as it’s what Nico wants, he’ll try to get more of it.

Check the Environment

Environmental enrichment is always our first, foremost and often ultimate tool in behavior modification.

Be sure you have a current up-to-date list of what Nico likes to do, eat, where he likes to go, at what times and how often. Spend some time just watching him to see new behaviors and note with interest those that increase companionship, exercise and other healthy habits.

It's good to get a lock on objectivity. Let's make sure our parrots live in places where they get to be parrots first, companions second. Look at the objects Nico enjoys and where he likes to hang out. An environment replete with what parrots like is the best environment for parrots. That’s where we see good behavior.

The more environmentally suited your habitat is to supply him with what he needs as a parrot and companion, the more interesting your shared relationship. You challenge yourself in a friendly way to find more and more things and places he likes. The resultant diversity of parrot-appropriate experiences you and he experience together are what challenges him.

When you take a close and compassionate look at Nico's environment, you might notice things he no longer enjoys as much as he did say, 4 months ago. If there's an enrichment he particularly likes (and you can tell because it’s nearly destroyed), try enriching it further, moving it to a cool new place, or adding another one somewhere else. Try to look at his environments -- cage, play gyms, baskets, and so forth -- from his point of view. He might enjoy a new basket or shower perch, or maybe he'll play more with some of his existing toys of they are spruced up and re-situated.

Environments designed from a parrot's point of view are set up according to parrot priorities. There's plenty of space, light, friends and privacy. Stuff to do and a place to get away from it all are available to all.

Timing is important, too

Training sessions stop and start when everyone is ready to learn. Participation can change moment by moment, so if the session feels strained or like it’s taking too long, wrap it up. Parrots like to make the choice to stop any session, too. I always think the best training sessions end when the parrots decide to destroy an ear of corn, search for a bit of walnut, or see what’s going on outside.

Rather than setting up a situation (due to timing, usually) where Nico's hanging upside down with his wings slightly spread causes you a problem, try making the time/space/priority to allow that behavior. It’s a great important exercise for your healthy young bird – see if flapping his wings is reinforcing and encourage him to do so for a good long while and well before sleep time.

If you want him to stop regurgitating, reinforce a behavior that’s incompatible with regurgitating, like flapping. Especially hanging upside down when flapping -- that's really incompatible with regurgitation – but it’s a very cool way for an active parrot to work out. That’s why hanging upside down and flapping is high on our list of Good Stuff to Do.

Wild Guys

Along those lines, I heartily recommend the WPT DVD "Where the Wild Greys Are", a copy of which is also being sent to you with my compliments. I love watching the wild greys and suspect you will, too. A word of caution -- pre-screen it out of earshot by Nico as you will want to turn the volume down in certain parts before he hears it!

The reasons to watch wild greys center around your pre-teen grey who would, I image, be one of the saucy, acrobatic and nimble greys we see in this highly interactive wild flock. Here we see and hear a part of the inimitable culture of greys: landing in and taking off from tree-tops, making racket and singing like angels, mingling, foraging and checking out elephants. This DVD really expanded my sensibilities about the sacrifices captive greys make in order to be our companions. It helps us re-valuate the substitutes we provide to captive parrots.

Rewards that stay rewarding

All in all, Miriam, I know you and Nico will do great together as long as you’re both ready and willing to keep learning. You first! Please read Barbara’ book and keep it handy, watch the DVD for inspiration, get ready to keep making changes, be watchful and sensitive and keep Nico’s priorities at the top of your schedule. Your rewards can be life-long companionship with an amazing creature.

Best regards,
Phoebe Greene Linden
Santa Barbara Bird Farm
Santa Barbara CA

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Ian, Thanks for writing about your two African parrots and how to increase compatibility between them. The chances are great that they will like each other. The cockatiel provides his own voice to the chorus and is a nice member of your flock.

Please have the new bird's health checked by your avian veterinarian before you bring him home. It makes good sense to protect the health of your current flock while confirming the health of the fledgling. Follow your vet's recommended quarantine period.

The best tool you have for a smooth introduction and life-long friendship between your birds is your keen observation of their behaviors. You mention that Scooby is already playful, so you're off to a great start. You've probably already shown him the baby's new cage and enrichments, and told him about the happily anticipated arrival. Include Scooby in your preparations by telling him all about the baby, just like you would an older sibling of an expected human child.

Plan the logistics of the entry: have a safe place to set the baby down away from Scooby if Scooby seems distressed by the chick (He probably won't -- this is just a precaution.).

With a grey, you probably already have a whistle or other noise that you make back and forth to each other that signals "good bird" or "you're cute" or "hi" or other types of approval. This communication will help you immeasurably when you introduce the two birds. Give Scooby the "happy sound" as you bring the chick into his view. Watch them both carefully and proceed slowly. If Scooby keeps responding to the happy sound, and the baby stays comfortable, move forward and keep watching.

Don't go too far too soon.

It's best to take the introduction one small step at a time. Stop and back up if Scooby or the baby starts to fidget uncomfortably or if one seems distressed. If all goes well, continue, but resist the urge to put the birds together beak-to-beak or within touching distance the first day. You'll be able to gauge their relative comfort by tuning in to your own perceptions: if it feels like "enough," it probably is. If you think one is uncomfortable, or if you are, slow down and stop the session.

Hopefully you, Scooby and the new bird will have many years to develop your mutual companionship, so relax into the process, have a good time and don't force anything. If something goes awry, or if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to write WPT again.

All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Diane, Thanks for writing World Parrot Trust with an interesting question. At first, I thought it was a trick question because my immediate response is "neither". Simply put, filing and clipping are not good remedies to beak overgrowth. In my experience, it's abnormal to have overgrown beaks, so I'd recommend that you determine the reason for beak overgrowth and solve the situation there first. "Beak trimming is not necessary in birds unless the beak is overgrown due to underlying health problems or malocclusion," states Greg Harrison, DVM, Dipl ABVP-Avian, Dipl ECAMS in Clinical Avian Medicine, Volume I, pg14.

Perhaps photos would help determine if your Amazon's beak is abnormal or if a cosmetic enhancement is sought? If photos are available, please send them. With cosmetic situations (e.g., those that don't stem from a physical malady), where the beak might just be rough and slightly uneven around the edges, chewing wood is the answer. We find that giving our Amazons lots of pine to chew up and consistently fresh wooden perches are the best beak grooming tools. Also, eating whole foods they sink their beaks into (vs eating little desiccated pieces of pellet, for instance) motivates parrots to vigorously wipe the juices off their beaks onto their perches and this wiping contributes to a well-groomed beak.

A healthy Amazon, given soft woods to chew and barky, fresh branches for beak wiping, will keep his or her beak well-groomed without intervention. If your bird's situation is different, kindly explain more fully.

Compare your parrot's beak to the beaks of Amazons you see on this web site. Shaping beaks is best left to experts with good tools who know how to use them. Also, remember that restraint alone can be stressful and incompetent restraint is worse. Under restraint, one wrong jerk by either the bird or practitioner could mean pain for the bird and additional beak trauma.

All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden
Santa Barbara Bird Farm

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi Kathleen, I’m so sorry for your little guy. He’s been through a lot for being young. Please tell us exactly how old he is and his name, OK?

Even though you have both been through a certain amount of trauma, the good point is that you probably have a solid relationship with an avian vet who can continue to help your parrot maintain good health. Perhaps a person at the vet hospital took a particular interest in him and can now become his babysitter and part of your local support network. All in all, robust health is the key to good relationship and increased activity and will contribute to his desire to explore more territory. Recovery from aspiration depends upon how much air sac tissue was affected so be sure to have him re-checked by your avian vet. The moment he seems down and inactive is the time to have him checked, not later.

Whether or not you confront the breeder with the past events depends on the relationship you have with that person. If you are confident that the result will yield desired results then sure, give a call. However, if you think there will be acrimony and that nothing will come of it, my advice is to concentrate on the here and now with your eclectus and stay in the moment.

Also, aspiration can happen at any time. It could have happened when he was a teeny baby, or in the carrier during transport to your home, or while he was at your house.

Parrots form bonds throughout their lives so its not like you’ve missed one critical bonding period that will never happen again. You did the right thing by getting him healthy when he was sick. When he’s confirmed healthy and active once again, put food bowls at the front of the cage, put some half perches on the cage door and keep the door open as much as possible. Fix it so that he can eat both at the front of the cage or while perching on the open cage door. My eclectus love mega millet and will go for it wherever it hangs—try it to see if it entices him, too.

It’s most important for you to discover what he finds reinforcing, what he does that comforts him, what behaviors he conducts to soothe himself and then acknowledge these. Try to set up the physical and emotional environments to encourage more of these behaviors. Watch him and catch him doing something cute like puffing his feathers, scratching his head with his foot, turning around on his perch, or cocking his head and give those behaviors verbal reinforcement. Key in to what he’s doing by giving him your undivided attention and praise when you see him moving to soothe himself and/or moving towards you. Also, establish a contact whistle or call that you use when you enter the house, his room, his area and use this consistently.

Please check out the following articles which will really help you:
http://www.parrots.org/pdfs/all_about_parrots/reference_library/behaviour_and_environmental_enrichment/Shaping%20New%20Behaviors.pdf

http://www.parrots.org/pdfs/all_about_parrots/reference_library/behaviour_and_environmental_enrichment/Success%20Files.pdf

Remember, we are trying to increase his physical skills and we do this by creating environments where it’s easy for him to do physical behaviors. We want him to gain physical acuity and increase the numbers of observable behaviors he conducts. When he walks or climbs from perch to perch, touches toys, destroys a stalk of mega millet, scratches his head with one foot, then with the other, turns around and fans his tail, rings a bell or whistles when you enter the room, you and he will have fully bonded.

Also, seriously consider purchasing Barbara Heidenreich’s books because they will help you establish an excellent and active relationship with your parrot. Therein, you’ll learn about desensitizing him to towels through the creation of non-threatening learning situations.

Keep us posted, Kathleen.

All best,
Phoebe

Answered by Phoebe Green Linden:

Hi and thanks for writing World Parrot Trust.

We have seen many types of wing-clips over the years and this "one wing clip" was advocated in the 1970's, but no longer. In our experience, it's best to clip both wings symetrically. That is, take off an equal number and amount of feathers from each wing. This way, the bird can maintain her balance which is beneficial for flapping and climbing.

When parrots are given an adequate indoor play area, they can be successful with partial flight, or with full flight, depending on the skill and commitment of the caregivers involved, as well as how well the environment supports flighted parrots.

All best,
Phoebe Greene Linden
Santa Barbara Bird Farm
Santa Barbara CA USA